I was not prepared for the culture shock when I arrived in Seoul. It was soo nice. I really don't remember everything being so nice. It was hot but everything had airconditioning! And no power cuts! The taxi driver put Peter's address in his GPS and drove me right to his school and I didn't even have to argue about the cost or tip.
Patrick was here visiting for the first week and the three of us had so much fun together. We went to Everland for the rollercoasters. After a few drinks we even got Peter on the steepest wooden rollercoaster in the world. We have done a good amount of bbq and noraebanging (Korean singing rooms) Enough that it made whatever stomache bug I had gotten from India come to the surface. I was pretty sick for a few days, but Patrick was the perfect person to be sick with, as he was totally content to lie in bed all day and watch tv with me. Thank goodness for antibiotics!
I am having fun attempting to remember my Korean from 6 years ago and seeing a lot of old places I used to go to. Peter and I went to a Handsome furs concert last Friday and managed to have a big night out in Hongdae. Then on Sunday we went for a hike that turned out to be bigger the we expected. Some how in our attempts to do a loop we did a straight line across the whole park, but it was a beautiful hike.
There is an opening at Peter's school and it did briefly tempt me, but alas I think I will come home. As much as I love it here I don't think I could live here again, although I am really not looking forward to having to live at home with out Peter.
I can't believe almost 6 months is over already and despite being excited to see my family and friends I really would prefer to keep on travelling. Although I have a feeling it could be awhile before I settle down, and I may be couch surfing for the next while. Free couch anyone? I will have the same phone number though so feel free to call me anytime after the 18th. See you soon!
Monday, August 16, 2010
Yodi-Mam
Although Varanasi was a little out of the way I really wanted to see the kids that I had spent 2 weeks with earlier in June. (see blog entry "basic human needs" if you don't remember every detail of my travels :)) Seeing the kids again was the perfect way to end my time in India. I got to see the school where on the first day in July 127 kids showed up. They have a few class rooms but most of the kids sit in different areas outside under hutlike covers. Beside the "classroom" is the counter where Bharti-mam spends the whole morning cooking lunch for all the kids and staff on one burner.
In the mornings I would come and help out in some of the classes or sometimes I would help Bharti with all the vegetables she had to cut for lunch. Often the girls would have to bring their baby brother or sister to school, so I would just hold a baby for the morning so they could go to class. After lunch school was over, as it is too hot to have school in the afternoon, the kids that had homes to go to went home. And the 30 "hostel kids" went back to the hostel for their afternoon nap. The kids that lived in the hostel were the ones that I spent most of my time with as they were the kids that were at camp in June and I knew them the best. I would spend the afternoon and evening hanging out at the hostel. After nap time we would all go out to the field and play games until 6pm when we would head back to the hostel and I would help the kids with their English homework and then we would eat dinner and I would catch a rickshaw back to my hotel. The kids begged me to sleep with them at the hostel as I had slept with them at camp, but the hostel had even less room.
The hostel has four rooms total and the girls sleep upstairs and the boys sleep down stairs. There are no beds and they all just sleep cuddled together on the cement floor. The amazing cook Interjit and his wife stay over night with the kids. There are 2 toilets and a spot for a bucket shower. It is amazing how well organized they are and I felt like I got to be apart of their big family. I was only there for 9 days but I feel like it was much longer and I totally fell in love with the kids again. Each one has their own sad tragic sad story but they are such survivors.
Not wanting to spend anytime away from them I got them to take me sight seeing around Varanasi which was so much fun. They looked after me more then I had to look after them. The only trouble that one boy got into was beating up another kid on the side of the road, but I had a hard time getting him in trouble when I asked why he was punching the other boy, he said he was "speaking abuse" about me.
Varanasi is a holy city for the Hindus and to die in the city and then be cremated here is especially auspicious as it is said to free you from the cycle of life and death. All along the Ganges or "Mother Ganga" there are ghats where pilgrims bathe away their sins in the water. The water is completely polluted with people being continually cremated on the burning ghats where the fire that Krishna himself started 3000years ago is said to be. As well people use it as a toilet, for bathing and doing laundry, and you will find some kids just swimming and drinking the water. This was all common place for the kids and one of the kids with very good English was able to tell me all the stories of the Hindu gods which really are quite interesting. He was so good at explaining and then in the middle of explaining one story I interupted and asked "Karim aren't you Muslim?" And he was like "Yes, but Yodi-mam it is all the same God." I love india and these kids.
The manager of the school had just recently gotten married and I felt totally honoured to be invited to the wedding party. One of the teachers and a new friend lent me one of her Sari's, jewelry and even a bindi dot for the occasion. I was just excited to dress-up for a night and although it was a small party it was great to see and of course eat.
I am not quite sure why I felt even more attached to these kids then ever before. Just seeing how the happily survive on nothing, I am committed to staying a part of their lives. The school and the hostel is able to run on such little money by Canadian standards but are always having trouble finding the money as the kids keep coming and they continue to need to hire more staff to deal with them. The school was completely overwhelmed with the generosity of my friends. I sent out one email asking for donations and was able to give the school $1800! THANK YOU THANK YOU THANK YOU to all of those that gave. The school was dangerously low on money and they were so overwhelmed by the amount of money and that people trusted me and them. I am really hoping to go back as soon as possible and want to maintian contact and hope to get a steady base of donations from Canada so the school is not continually worried about the next month. If anyone is still interested in giving please contact me!
On my last night the kids threw me a little good bye party where they all sang songs for me and had made me a big goodbye card and all kinds of little good-bye cards. After hugging all the kids good-bye before bedtime, although some of the little ones had already fallen asleep in the corner of the room, I headed out to the train station with my regular rickshaw driver in the pouring rain.
The whole station was flooded and it was hard find a place to stand with the crowds let alone put down my bag. Plus the power kept cutting out every few minutes. It took awhile to figure out, but my 1155pm train ended up being delayed 2 hours while I sat on the platform in the pitchdark. Although I didn't feel scared I was able to recognize this did not seem like a safe situation. But at 2am my train arrived and I was able to find my bed and get a little sleep on the 14 hour journey while trying to keep my hands on all my stuff. With no energy left to deal with Delhi I went straight to the airport even though my flight wasn't for another 9 hours.
India was probably some of the hardest and most interesting travelling I have ever done and I was quite sad to be leaving not knowing how soon I could get. But at least I had Peter and Patrick waiting for me in Seoul for the last 2 weeks of my trip!
In the mornings I would come and help out in some of the classes or sometimes I would help Bharti with all the vegetables she had to cut for lunch. Often the girls would have to bring their baby brother or sister to school, so I would just hold a baby for the morning so they could go to class. After lunch school was over, as it is too hot to have school in the afternoon, the kids that had homes to go to went home. And the 30 "hostel kids" went back to the hostel for their afternoon nap. The kids that lived in the hostel were the ones that I spent most of my time with as they were the kids that were at camp in June and I knew them the best. I would spend the afternoon and evening hanging out at the hostel. After nap time we would all go out to the field and play games until 6pm when we would head back to the hostel and I would help the kids with their English homework and then we would eat dinner and I would catch a rickshaw back to my hotel. The kids begged me to sleep with them at the hostel as I had slept with them at camp, but the hostel had even less room.
The hostel has four rooms total and the girls sleep upstairs and the boys sleep down stairs. There are no beds and they all just sleep cuddled together on the cement floor. The amazing cook Interjit and his wife stay over night with the kids. There are 2 toilets and a spot for a bucket shower. It is amazing how well organized they are and I felt like I got to be apart of their big family. I was only there for 9 days but I feel like it was much longer and I totally fell in love with the kids again. Each one has their own sad tragic sad story but they are such survivors.
Not wanting to spend anytime away from them I got them to take me sight seeing around Varanasi which was so much fun. They looked after me more then I had to look after them. The only trouble that one boy got into was beating up another kid on the side of the road, but I had a hard time getting him in trouble when I asked why he was punching the other boy, he said he was "speaking abuse" about me.
Varanasi is a holy city for the Hindus and to die in the city and then be cremated here is especially auspicious as it is said to free you from the cycle of life and death. All along the Ganges or "Mother Ganga" there are ghats where pilgrims bathe away their sins in the water. The water is completely polluted with people being continually cremated on the burning ghats where the fire that Krishna himself started 3000years ago is said to be. As well people use it as a toilet, for bathing and doing laundry, and you will find some kids just swimming and drinking the water. This was all common place for the kids and one of the kids with very good English was able to tell me all the stories of the Hindu gods which really are quite interesting. He was so good at explaining and then in the middle of explaining one story I interupted and asked "Karim aren't you Muslim?" And he was like "Yes, but Yodi-mam it is all the same God." I love india and these kids.
The manager of the school had just recently gotten married and I felt totally honoured to be invited to the wedding party. One of the teachers and a new friend lent me one of her Sari's, jewelry and even a bindi dot for the occasion. I was just excited to dress-up for a night and although it was a small party it was great to see and of course eat.
I am not quite sure why I felt even more attached to these kids then ever before. Just seeing how the happily survive on nothing, I am committed to staying a part of their lives. The school and the hostel is able to run on such little money by Canadian standards but are always having trouble finding the money as the kids keep coming and they continue to need to hire more staff to deal with them. The school was completely overwhelmed with the generosity of my friends. I sent out one email asking for donations and was able to give the school $1800! THANK YOU THANK YOU THANK YOU to all of those that gave. The school was dangerously low on money and they were so overwhelmed by the amount of money and that people trusted me and them. I am really hoping to go back as soon as possible and want to maintian contact and hope to get a steady base of donations from Canada so the school is not continually worried about the next month. If anyone is still interested in giving please contact me!
On my last night the kids threw me a little good bye party where they all sang songs for me and had made me a big goodbye card and all kinds of little good-bye cards. After hugging all the kids good-bye before bedtime, although some of the little ones had already fallen asleep in the corner of the room, I headed out to the train station with my regular rickshaw driver in the pouring rain.
The whole station was flooded and it was hard find a place to stand with the crowds let alone put down my bag. Plus the power kept cutting out every few minutes. It took awhile to figure out, but my 1155pm train ended up being delayed 2 hours while I sat on the platform in the pitchdark. Although I didn't feel scared I was able to recognize this did not seem like a safe situation. But at 2am my train arrived and I was able to find my bed and get a little sleep on the 14 hour journey while trying to keep my hands on all my stuff. With no energy left to deal with Delhi I went straight to the airport even though my flight wasn't for another 9 hours.
India was probably some of the hardest and most interesting travelling I have ever done and I was quite sad to be leaving not knowing how soon I could get. But at least I had Peter and Patrick waiting for me in Seoul for the last 2 weeks of my trip!
A Pause in the Punjab
On yet again another sketchy over night bus I made it to Amritsar in the Punjab province of India around noon. The whole city was buzzing with Sikh pilgrams from all over India coming to see the Golden Temple. The 2 things I had wanted to see was the Temple and the India-Pakistan Border closing ceremony. Some guy at the side of the road was selling seats in his van, so that seemed like a safe and cheap way to get there.
I got in the van with about 8 other Indian men from the air force. Actually some of the nicest Indian men I have met on the whole trip. When we got to the border it was a total gong show with people everywhere people fighting for good seats in the bandstands over looking the border. The Pakistan side had people crowded in a bandstand as well. The next half hour people on either side of the border cheered about their respective countries, then the border guards came out and did a bunch of silly walks and then after both sides had strutted up and down a bunch they shook hands lowered the flags and the border was declared closed. Very weird considering how much bad blood there is between the countries but very interesting to see everyone having fun.
On the way back I realized that I had read my plane ticket wrong for the next day and was leaving first thing in the morning not at night. I don't travel much so it was an easy mistake to make. Lucky for me the Golden Temple is open 24 hours a day. I was totally blown away by how big and gorgeous the temple was. There were people everywhere swimming in the holy water and doing a whole other set of religious rituals that were new to me again. I went back again at 430am before going to the airport and it was busy at the that time too. People sleep there and there is always free food available for everyone. Although a brief stopover it was totally worth it. The people were so warm and friendly and once again a completely different side to India.
I got in the van with about 8 other Indian men from the air force. Actually some of the nicest Indian men I have met on the whole trip. When we got to the border it was a total gong show with people everywhere people fighting for good seats in the bandstands over looking the border. The Pakistan side had people crowded in a bandstand as well. The next half hour people on either side of the border cheered about their respective countries, then the border guards came out and did a bunch of silly walks and then after both sides had strutted up and down a bunch they shook hands lowered the flags and the border was declared closed. Very weird considering how much bad blood there is between the countries but very interesting to see everyone having fun.
On the way back I realized that I had read my plane ticket wrong for the next day and was leaving first thing in the morning not at night. I don't travel much so it was an easy mistake to make. Lucky for me the Golden Temple is open 24 hours a day. I was totally blown away by how big and gorgeous the temple was. There were people everywhere swimming in the holy water and doing a whole other set of religious rituals that were new to me again. I went back again at 430am before going to the airport and it was busy at the that time too. People sleep there and there is always free food available for everyone. Although a brief stopover it was totally worth it. The people were so warm and friendly and once again a completely different side to India.
Friday, July 23, 2010
Trekking in Thin Air
Our 10 day trek started out easy. Kristi, Sophie (our soon to be good friend from France) Tserring (our guide) Bobbi (our cook) Driver-ji (Our driver)and myself in the jeep. We headed out to a little town where the Dalai Lama lives when he is in town. It was His Holinesses birthday and there was a big celebration. We took a tour of HH's house, watched some dancing and toured a temple. Afterwards we headed out to Rumtse where our trek was to start and set up camp to wait for our ponies and Pony Man.
The next day started the way the rest were to start, with a "Good morning!" from outside our tent at 7am, and Tserring opening the tent to give us our "bed tea." We would then pack up, have a huge breakfast served to us, and head out with our lunch boxes for the day.
We covered over 160kms and hiked through 5 mountian passes, our highest being 5500m! We never never dropped below 4400m and we felt it. While walking up hill I was panting and my heart was racing like I had been running for hours and when I would look down at my feet I would see one foot slowly moving to take a small step in front of the other.
We would usually arrive at camp sometime between 1 and 3pm. Bobbie and Pony Man would have already made it there and would be waiting for us with chai and bisquits. Our afternoons would usually be spent lying around reading, journaling or sleeping. Sometimes we would also have language lessons with Sophie teaching us French and Tserring and Bobbie teaching us Ladakhi and Hindi. Tserring chose his own phrases he thought would be useful for me to know:
"Where is the bus station?"
"Give me your hat."
"I love you" and "Would you like to marry me?"
The only one I can remember is "Give me your hat." and I have yet to find a use for it.
Everynight Bobbie served us copious amounts of food ensuring our bodies did not get any weight loss benefits from our day hiking.
I really don't have the vocabulary to describe our incredible surroundings. Everyday/hour was different and on some of the mountain passess I felt like my mom, (sorry mom) I would get teary because it was so beautiful. You could see snow-capped mountains for miles in every direction. Between the passes we hiked in nomads land of big green valleys. We didn't run into any villages but did see some herds of yaks and goats, lots of marmets and pica, some wild ass and two wolves.
The last day we arrived at a little village on Tsomoriri lake. We stayed one extra day to see the nomads come in for the festival at the Buddhist monestary. The last day was spent driving all the way back to Leh.
Overall the trek was one of the highest points (pun intended) of my trip. We felt like a little family by the end and only the thoughts of a shower, soft bed and possibly a full breathe of oxygen filled air lured us back to Leh.
We didn't stay long though. After giving ourselves one day off Kristi and I were eager to fit in one more trek. We mistakenly thought the trek made us strong, not tired us out. And decided to do a 4 day trek in 2 days without a guide.
On day one we some how missed the last stop for drinking water and got completely dehydrated before finding a relatively clean stream to refill on water (totally worth carrying around the chlorine drops for 5 months)
After 8 hours of hiking up hill I thought I was going to collapse (actually I felt this way from hour 5 on) I have new sympathy for anyone that I have ever hiked or ran with who told me they could not go on. If you felt the way I did that day I am so sorry.
We made it to the idyllic village of Rumback and it made the day worth it. It felt like we were in a some magical village straight out of "Lord of the Rings." It was surrounded by huge rocky mountains and in a little valley with only a few fields of their own crops. The village had 67 people living there and 9 homes. All 9 houses were set up as "home-stay" options for trekkers.
We spent the night with a lovely Ladakhi family that spoke little English. It was a very cool brick home where we had dinner with the family and I mainly slept the whole time we were there and didn't even have the energy to take pictures. We were both so overwhlemed that we had the chance to experience staying there.
The next morning we filled up on water and electrolights and managed to make it 3 hours and 1100m's up top to the pass which, once again, too amazing for words blah blah blah.....
I felt completely on a high, partially from the beauty and partially from knowing I only had down-hill to hike from then on.
After 5 hours of hiking down we arrived at a little Ladakhi village where the women were having a big water fight. Filthy dirty we got a taxi home and walked straight into a Tibetan restaurant for some Momo soup after which I finally felt normal again.
The next few days the only exercise we got was shopping and visiting with all our friends around town (Mainly shopkeepers and the guys from the German bakery.)
I had plans to continue on to Srinigar in Kashmir but there have been some terrorist attacks and the city has been under curfew for weeks. Even though people insisted it was safe for tourists there was a possibility I could get stuck there so I decided against it. Despite my raving about the drive to Leh from Manali I was not eager to repeat it. But as the "Leh-Manali" road was the only "safe" route from Leh I headed back to Manali. I had to say good-bye to Kristi (who was an AWESOME travel friend for over month) and headed out on the world's 2nd most dangerous highway (according to the people in the van you may may want to varify that fact yourself) for the 19 hour bumpy ride back to Manali.
I am now relaxing back at Dharma guesthouse where I stayed last time I was here. Very nice to be greeted by friendly faces returning. They even convinced me to stay an extra day which was not hard as I am not eager to do another overnight bus or deal with the hot monsoon-ridden India that awaits me.
The next day started the way the rest were to start, with a "Good morning!" from outside our tent at 7am, and Tserring opening the tent to give us our "bed tea." We would then pack up, have a huge breakfast served to us, and head out with our lunch boxes for the day.
We covered over 160kms and hiked through 5 mountian passes, our highest being 5500m! We never never dropped below 4400m and we felt it. While walking up hill I was panting and my heart was racing like I had been running for hours and when I would look down at my feet I would see one foot slowly moving to take a small step in front of the other.
We would usually arrive at camp sometime between 1 and 3pm. Bobbie and Pony Man would have already made it there and would be waiting for us with chai and bisquits. Our afternoons would usually be spent lying around reading, journaling or sleeping. Sometimes we would also have language lessons with Sophie teaching us French and Tserring and Bobbie teaching us Ladakhi and Hindi. Tserring chose his own phrases he thought would be useful for me to know:
"Where is the bus station?"
"Give me your hat."
"I love you" and "Would you like to marry me?"
The only one I can remember is "Give me your hat." and I have yet to find a use for it.
Everynight Bobbie served us copious amounts of food ensuring our bodies did not get any weight loss benefits from our day hiking.
I really don't have the vocabulary to describe our incredible surroundings. Everyday/hour was different and on some of the mountain passess I felt like my mom, (sorry mom) I would get teary because it was so beautiful. You could see snow-capped mountains for miles in every direction. Between the passes we hiked in nomads land of big green valleys. We didn't run into any villages but did see some herds of yaks and goats, lots of marmets and pica, some wild ass and two wolves.
The last day we arrived at a little village on Tsomoriri lake. We stayed one extra day to see the nomads come in for the festival at the Buddhist monestary. The last day was spent driving all the way back to Leh.
Overall the trek was one of the highest points (pun intended) of my trip. We felt like a little family by the end and only the thoughts of a shower, soft bed and possibly a full breathe of oxygen filled air lured us back to Leh.
We didn't stay long though. After giving ourselves one day off Kristi and I were eager to fit in one more trek. We mistakenly thought the trek made us strong, not tired us out. And decided to do a 4 day trek in 2 days without a guide.
On day one we some how missed the last stop for drinking water and got completely dehydrated before finding a relatively clean stream to refill on water (totally worth carrying around the chlorine drops for 5 months)
After 8 hours of hiking up hill I thought I was going to collapse (actually I felt this way from hour 5 on) I have new sympathy for anyone that I have ever hiked or ran with who told me they could not go on. If you felt the way I did that day I am so sorry.
We made it to the idyllic village of Rumback and it made the day worth it. It felt like we were in a some magical village straight out of "Lord of the Rings." It was surrounded by huge rocky mountains and in a little valley with only a few fields of their own crops. The village had 67 people living there and 9 homes. All 9 houses were set up as "home-stay" options for trekkers.
We spent the night with a lovely Ladakhi family that spoke little English. It was a very cool brick home where we had dinner with the family and I mainly slept the whole time we were there and didn't even have the energy to take pictures. We were both so overwhlemed that we had the chance to experience staying there.
The next morning we filled up on water and electrolights and managed to make it 3 hours and 1100m's up top to the pass which, once again, too amazing for words blah blah blah.....
I felt completely on a high, partially from the beauty and partially from knowing I only had down-hill to hike from then on.
After 5 hours of hiking down we arrived at a little Ladakhi village where the women were having a big water fight. Filthy dirty we got a taxi home and walked straight into a Tibetan restaurant for some Momo soup after which I finally felt normal again.
The next few days the only exercise we got was shopping and visiting with all our friends around town (Mainly shopkeepers and the guys from the German bakery.)
I had plans to continue on to Srinigar in Kashmir but there have been some terrorist attacks and the city has been under curfew for weeks. Even though people insisted it was safe for tourists there was a possibility I could get stuck there so I decided against it. Despite my raving about the drive to Leh from Manali I was not eager to repeat it. But as the "Leh-Manali" road was the only "safe" route from Leh I headed back to Manali. I had to say good-bye to Kristi (who was an AWESOME travel friend for over month) and headed out on the world's 2nd most dangerous highway (according to the people in the van you may may want to varify that fact yourself) for the 19 hour bumpy ride back to Manali.
I am now relaxing back at Dharma guesthouse where I stayed last time I was here. Very nice to be greeted by friendly faces returning. They even convinced me to stay an extra day which was not hard as I am not eager to do another overnight bus or deal with the hot monsoon-ridden India that awaits me.
Saturday, July 3, 2010
On Top of the World Looking Down on Creation
Kristi and I headed out of Manali at 200am (330am India time) on a 19 hour bus ride to Leh. The bus ride was the quintessential India experience. Basically it was one of the worst and the best experiences of my life. Any remote hopes of sleeping on the mini bus were dashed seconds after the van careened down the road swerving back and forth, I can only assume testing the weight of the bus. The next 19 hours were constant swerving on narrow mountain roads where if you attempted for a second to rest your head, the bus would laugh at you and push you right out of your seat and slam your head back leaving you with a slight whiplash sensation. Most of the hours were spent gripping the bar in front of you trying to stay seated. Gasping for thin air (literally at that altitude) but mainly getting dust or exhaust from the bus in front of us.
That, for those who couldn't guess, was the worst part of the trip. The best part was that while clutching your seat, the bus passed through about 4 or 5 mountain passes all between 5000m and 5500m high. As the sun was rising you felt you were literally driving on the top of the world and you could see for miles.
The geography changed every hour. The bus would work its way down from snowy mountain passes to pastures with nomads herding their sheep, back up through mountain deserts and rock formations that looked straight out of "Star Wars." At times you could look back at what looked like a sheer rock face and see the thin line of the road that you just drove on. Then we would be driving on a high plain and it felt like you were in a cross country race as the busses (we were carvanning) would drive as fast s possible aross the dusty plain till they started on a windy "road" again. It was by far the most spectacular scenery I have ever come across.
The Ladahk valley feels like a completely different country. Leh itself is a large town but it is actually quite relaxed. It is more Buddhist then Hindu, and there are monks and temples everywhere. The town is surrounded on all directions by rocky, snow-capped mountains. Leh itself is 3500m and most treks go higher then that so you are suppossed to give yourself some time to acclimatize. Kristi and I have had no problem spending our days "preparing" for our treks. This has consisted mainly of us buying a lot of great quality knock-off out gear for super cheap. Everyone here is so proud it comes straight from China. Between all the amazing Tibet handicarft markets, outdoor gear shopping and sampling as much yummy Nepali food as possible we have managed to keep ourselves quite busy.
Of course it hasn't all been easy. We did have the stress of deciding what treks we wanted to do. We have decided on a 10 day trek that leaves on the 6th and ends at a nomadic festival. Very excited to see what we have gotten ourselves into!
That, for those who couldn't guess, was the worst part of the trip. The best part was that while clutching your seat, the bus passed through about 4 or 5 mountain passes all between 5000m and 5500m high. As the sun was rising you felt you were literally driving on the top of the world and you could see for miles.
The geography changed every hour. The bus would work its way down from snowy mountain passes to pastures with nomads herding their sheep, back up through mountain deserts and rock formations that looked straight out of "Star Wars." At times you could look back at what looked like a sheer rock face and see the thin line of the road that you just drove on. Then we would be driving on a high plain and it felt like you were in a cross country race as the busses (we were carvanning) would drive as fast s possible aross the dusty plain till they started on a windy "road" again. It was by far the most spectacular scenery I have ever come across.
The Ladahk valley feels like a completely different country. Leh itself is a large town but it is actually quite relaxed. It is more Buddhist then Hindu, and there are monks and temples everywhere. The town is surrounded on all directions by rocky, snow-capped mountains. Leh itself is 3500m and most treks go higher then that so you are suppossed to give yourself some time to acclimatize. Kristi and I have had no problem spending our days "preparing" for our treks. This has consisted mainly of us buying a lot of great quality knock-off out gear for super cheap. Everyone here is so proud it comes straight from China. Between all the amazing Tibet handicarft markets, outdoor gear shopping and sampling as much yummy Nepali food as possible we have managed to keep ourselves quite busy.
Of course it hasn't all been easy. We did have the stress of deciding what treks we wanted to do. We have decided on a 10 day trek that leaves on the 6th and ends at a nomadic festival. Very excited to see what we have gotten ourselves into!
Yodi Goes Yogi
In an attempt to get some kind of level of fitness back I took the 2 hour yoga class at the hotel. 20 mintues in I was sweating and all tied up in ropes, and not having fun. I found out later that all the students were in the yoga teachers training program. So the next day when I dragged Stewart and Nicola down they were all gone and we had a beginners yoga class that was great.
The days all kind of blur together as we fell into a little routine on yoga in the morning, some kind of walk or hike in the afternoon and then would sit and drink on our balcony over looking the mountains. Nicola and I especially needed the relaxing as our faces had been marred by the high altitude sun. Nicola's lips blistered up and my nose took the honour, it was very attractive. Kristi, a friend I had met in Rishikesh, came up to join us and we had a few days with the 4 of us before we sadly had to say good-bye to Stewart and Nicola.
I was really giving the yoga thing great effort but when Kristi ( a former gymnist) joined the class he seemed to make it harder. On the last day he had Kristi doing hand stands while me, with 2 herniated discs in my back and a shoulder injury from doing "downward dog" improperly, was desperately trying to keep my sit bones on my heels while stretching my arms on the ground. We both got in trouble for laughing when I pointed out to Kristi (upside down beside me) that I couldn't help but notice my adaptation of the pose was quite different then hers. Thus ended my yoga career.
The days all kind of blur together as we fell into a little routine on yoga in the morning, some kind of walk or hike in the afternoon and then would sit and drink on our balcony over looking the mountains. Nicola and I especially needed the relaxing as our faces had been marred by the high altitude sun. Nicola's lips blistered up and my nose took the honour, it was very attractive. Kristi, a friend I had met in Rishikesh, came up to join us and we had a few days with the 4 of us before we sadly had to say good-bye to Stewart and Nicola.
I was really giving the yoga thing great effort but when Kristi ( a former gymnist) joined the class he seemed to make it harder. On the last day he had Kristi doing hand stands while me, with 2 herniated discs in my back and a shoulder injury from doing "downward dog" improperly, was desperately trying to keep my sit bones on my heels while stretching my arms on the ground. We both got in trouble for laughing when I pointed out to Kristi (upside down beside me) that I couldn't help but notice my adaptation of the pose was quite different then hers. Thus ended my yoga career.
Manali Mountain Madness
As we were surrounded by an amazing mountain range Stewart, Nicola and I decided to do a 3 day trek. All we knew was that we had a guide, and food and supplies were provided. When we headed out we discovered we had a guide, a cook, and 3 porters who carried massive loads on a rope strapped around their forehead. The hike was all up hill and starting at 3300m felt hard, but when we arrived at camp we felt quite lazy as the porters carrying 5x the weight we were, had made it to camp and set up the tents already. So all we could do was relax enjoy the scenery, play cards, finish the rum and eat the copious amounts of food the cook prepared for us. So much for a healthy day of hiking.
Unbeknownst to even our guide there was more snow on the mountains then expected. The second day we hiked 6 out of 7 hours in the snow without proper equipment. The views from 4400m were spectacular but slightly numbed by the frozen feet. By hour 5 I was quite sick of falling on my face or through the snow every few steps. We arrived at the "lake" the destination the trek was designed to reach, to see a nice pond covered in snow snapped a picture and begged our guide to get us out of the snow asap.
We were very happy to see our camp set up for us when we arrived that day (the porters took a different route) and fresh pakoras waiting for us. The next day was an easy hike down to our guest house where I was to spend the next 10 days...
Unbeknownst to even our guide there was more snow on the mountains then expected. The second day we hiked 6 out of 7 hours in the snow without proper equipment. The views from 4400m were spectacular but slightly numbed by the frozen feet. By hour 5 I was quite sick of falling on my face or through the snow every few steps. We arrived at the "lake" the destination the trek was designed to reach, to see a nice pond covered in snow snapped a picture and begged our guide to get us out of the snow asap.
We were very happy to see our camp set up for us when we arrived that day (the porters took a different route) and fresh pakoras waiting for us. The next day was an easy hike down to our guest house where I was to spend the next 10 days...
Wednesday, June 16, 2010
Manali!!! Is this even India?
After my overnight bus to Rishikesh I was very happy to have my new friends Nicola and Stewart to share a taxi up the small windy mountain roads to Manali. We arrived at 10pm to a village we had heard about right outside of Manili, (Vashisht) to cold temperatures and pouring rain, and for the first time on the trip, we had a hard time finding a place to stay. We ended up crashing for the night in a cement room with a shared toilet and no sink or shower. They were nice enough to bring up a bucket of hot water. I was starting to be worried... plus they told us the road to Leh was blocked and that is why it was so busy in town... Leh was to be our next stop.
When I woke up in the morning I was eager to find a hotel with a shower. I discovered that we were staying in a beautiful little town and I found a great guesthouse up a hill with balconies over looking the Himilayas! It kind of feels like we are in Whistler but there are constant reminders that we are still in India. For example, the cow that head butted Stewart and the families bathing and doing laundry in the hotspring below our hotel, the Rickshaw drivers and of course the amazing food! The people are different here and so friendly and welcoming.
There is Yoga here too and I continue to try to make my body fit into some very unnatural positions. And for the first time in weeks we have discovered a liquor store! Yes I really think we are in heaven. Which I think may make the yoga class today even harder then it was yesterday. We head out tomorrow on a 3 day trek which after almost 4 months of travelling I am a little nervous about my fitness level. But as we are hiking at about 3000m and up, I will easily be able to blame it on the altitude.
The town is quite busy as the road to Leh, which is usaully open in May, has been closed again due to snow fall. So my life has some stress in it right now, I have to decide whether to hang out in this paradise for a couple of weeks or try to fly to Leh. I know you will all be feeling sorry for me and I would appreciate your prayers during this difficult time.
When I woke up in the morning I was eager to find a hotel with a shower. I discovered that we were staying in a beautiful little town and I found a great guesthouse up a hill with balconies over looking the Himilayas! It kind of feels like we are in Whistler but there are constant reminders that we are still in India. For example, the cow that head butted Stewart and the families bathing and doing laundry in the hotspring below our hotel, the Rickshaw drivers and of course the amazing food! The people are different here and so friendly and welcoming.
There is Yoga here too and I continue to try to make my body fit into some very unnatural positions. And for the first time in weeks we have discovered a liquor store! Yes I really think we are in heaven. Which I think may make the yoga class today even harder then it was yesterday. We head out tomorrow on a 3 day trek which after almost 4 months of travelling I am a little nervous about my fitness level. But as we are hiking at about 3000m and up, I will easily be able to blame it on the altitude.
The town is quite busy as the road to Leh, which is usaully open in May, has been closed again due to snow fall. So my life has some stress in it right now, I have to decide whether to hang out in this paradise for a couple of weeks or try to fly to Leh. I know you will all be feeling sorry for me and I would appreciate your prayers during this difficult time.
From camp back to travelling
My last week with the kids was amazing, and of course, the longer I stayed the more in love with them I fell. It really is amazing how quickly you adjust to the lifestyle. I never did figure out the clothes washing thing and once and a while I would sneak a half a bucket of rain water to wash my hair. They asked me to stay a bit longer as they were having a "lice free" party the day after I was to leave. But there were a few times in the week where I wasn't able to go to the "lice free" party anyway. I had started to learn some of their Bollywood dance moves that would have helped at the party, but I had already made plans to meet up with Nicola and Stewart in Rishikesh, the yoga capitol of the world. And I am sure most of you know how I feel about changing plans after they have been made.
I headed out from Almora by myself on an over night government bus. I really had no idea what this meant before getting on. Thank goodness I had gone early to reserve a seat, as they stuck 65 people on a 45 seater bus for 12 hours. It was pretty horrible and cramped but the whole journey only cost $5! Which really was little comfort at 3am when you can't sleep or move your legs and you are not quite certain if the man in front of you is stroking your leg and why the guy sitting on your arm rest is not responding to the constant elbows to move over.
Rishikesh was my first experience of the Holy Ganga river and their were people everywhere bathing and washing in it. I stayed at an Ashram, which yes sounds really cool, but was really just a hotel with more rules and they offered yoga classes. I met up with my friends and made some more and we all discovered together how hard "real" yoga is. I swear our yoga instructor was made of rubber and seemed very confused that I could not even remotely get my body in the same position as him.
We spent one morning rafting down the Ganga which I am sure was not even close to the rafting at home but still a lot of fun. Very hard to see the Indians in the raft with us filling up their water bottle with the dirty polluted water and drinking it. I some how expected Rishikesh to be more quaint and starting to doubt the LP's description of things. But alas it still is India and no matter where you are there are a LOT of people. Despite being in the mountains it was still quite hot and we decided to head out to Manali to cool down and hopefully trek in the Himilayas...
I headed out from Almora by myself on an over night government bus. I really had no idea what this meant before getting on. Thank goodness I had gone early to reserve a seat, as they stuck 65 people on a 45 seater bus for 12 hours. It was pretty horrible and cramped but the whole journey only cost $5! Which really was little comfort at 3am when you can't sleep or move your legs and you are not quite certain if the man in front of you is stroking your leg and why the guy sitting on your arm rest is not responding to the constant elbows to move over.
Rishikesh was my first experience of the Holy Ganga river and their were people everywhere bathing and washing in it. I stayed at an Ashram, which yes sounds really cool, but was really just a hotel with more rules and they offered yoga classes. I met up with my friends and made some more and we all discovered together how hard "real" yoga is. I swear our yoga instructor was made of rubber and seemed very confused that I could not even remotely get my body in the same position as him.
We spent one morning rafting down the Ganga which I am sure was not even close to the rafting at home but still a lot of fun. Very hard to see the Indians in the raft with us filling up their water bottle with the dirty polluted water and drinking it. I some how expected Rishikesh to be more quaint and starting to doubt the LP's description of things. But alas it still is India and no matter where you are there are a LOT of people. Despite being in the mountains it was still quite hot and we decided to head out to Manali to cool down and hopefully trek in the Himilayas...
Monday, June 7, 2010
Basic Human Needs
A few years ago at my friends Bob and Greg's wedding, I met Jess. She had been living in India for quite a few years and her and her husband had started a school for children living on the streets of Varanassi. This had since expanded to include a hostel for the children to stay in so they were off the streets and had a safe place to live.
When I started to think about India I got her email to see if I could come help out at her school. Things have worked out so beautifully. She flew into Delhi the day Shauna left and was heading up to meet the kids at summer camp in the mountains near Almora. The school had received funds to escape the heat of Varanassi stay in the mountains for a month.
We arrived to 50 kids aged 5 to 16, and 6 staff members. It is so hard for me to even start to describe experience I am having. The first few nights we were 13 to a small room with one bed and I shared it with three other kids. Waking up with legs and arms cuddle up to me and heads trying to steal my pillow. Which woudn't have bothered me if the the smell of the lice treatment in there hair was not so stinky. We have had problems getting water and every seond day we walk an hour to the small river to swim, bathe and all the kids wash out their own clothes. They all find this quite natural and me being the lazy westerner seem to be the only one finding it a little weird swimming and bathing fully clothed and I also seem to get my clothes dirtier every time I attempt to wash them and the kids have to help.
We all eat our meals together on mats on the floor and it sounds stupid but they are soo good at eating with their hands. It is currently nap time and all the kids are asleep or doing chores. The weather has been amazing and on a clear day I wake up to a stunning view of the Himilayas.
To say I am volunteering does not quite sound right. For the most part the kids do the work and I just get to hang out and play with them. It has been difficult as few of the kids speak English but the longer I am here the more they try. I feel like I am just now starting to see India and am so grateful that I have been given the chance to be a part of these kids lives for a little while. The more I get to know them the more stories I learn about there families and how they ended up here. I actually find it hard to look at them sometimes as they are laughing and playing and not cry.
One of the 6 year old girls parents took her out of the hostel for a month so they could use her for begging and then thought it would be fun to get her drunk and make her eat beetle nut (a narcotic) When they finally returned her to the hostel she was presenting as a drug addict. Another boy of 9 years old was left to care for his 4 younger sisters, one night he dropped his baby sister on her head and didn't know what to do and she died. He still does not speak about it. Another 5 year old girl watched as her father killed her mother in a fire. None of the kids have safe homes to go to and the stories go on and on. But here in the mountains and at their school in Varanassi they are safe and loved. The get access to three meals a day, an education and a safe place to sleep. I am really not saying these stories to be shocking but the school is always running out of money and is not funded at all by the Indian government that does not feel that are any problems with the education system. I know everyone has their charities at home that they already give too but being here and seeing how hard working the staff are (they get paid about $120 a month.) and they put so much work into providing for these kids with no overhead bureaucratic and administrative fees I am determined to try to help because I can't imagine even one of these kids on the street again.
Check out their web site if even just to see what I have been up to for the past week and some basichumanneeds.net
And on top of everything else that has made this past week amazing I have made a good friend in Jessica. I will head out on Friday and not sure where or with whom but I really hope to be able to get to Varanassi at the end of the trip to see the kids and the school. Well nap time is over and the kids are up with fresh energy, I think I should have been napping too.
When I started to think about India I got her email to see if I could come help out at her school. Things have worked out so beautifully. She flew into Delhi the day Shauna left and was heading up to meet the kids at summer camp in the mountains near Almora. The school had received funds to escape the heat of Varanassi stay in the mountains for a month.
We arrived to 50 kids aged 5 to 16, and 6 staff members. It is so hard for me to even start to describe experience I am having. The first few nights we were 13 to a small room with one bed and I shared it with three other kids. Waking up with legs and arms cuddle up to me and heads trying to steal my pillow. Which woudn't have bothered me if the the smell of the lice treatment in there hair was not so stinky. We have had problems getting water and every seond day we walk an hour to the small river to swim, bathe and all the kids wash out their own clothes. They all find this quite natural and me being the lazy westerner seem to be the only one finding it a little weird swimming and bathing fully clothed and I also seem to get my clothes dirtier every time I attempt to wash them and the kids have to help.
We all eat our meals together on mats on the floor and it sounds stupid but they are soo good at eating with their hands. It is currently nap time and all the kids are asleep or doing chores. The weather has been amazing and on a clear day I wake up to a stunning view of the Himilayas.
To say I am volunteering does not quite sound right. For the most part the kids do the work and I just get to hang out and play with them. It has been difficult as few of the kids speak English but the longer I am here the more they try. I feel like I am just now starting to see India and am so grateful that I have been given the chance to be a part of these kids lives for a little while. The more I get to know them the more stories I learn about there families and how they ended up here. I actually find it hard to look at them sometimes as they are laughing and playing and not cry.
One of the 6 year old girls parents took her out of the hostel for a month so they could use her for begging and then thought it would be fun to get her drunk and make her eat beetle nut (a narcotic) When they finally returned her to the hostel she was presenting as a drug addict. Another boy of 9 years old was left to care for his 4 younger sisters, one night he dropped his baby sister on her head and didn't know what to do and she died. He still does not speak about it. Another 5 year old girl watched as her father killed her mother in a fire. None of the kids have safe homes to go to and the stories go on and on. But here in the mountains and at their school in Varanassi they are safe and loved. The get access to three meals a day, an education and a safe place to sleep. I am really not saying these stories to be shocking but the school is always running out of money and is not funded at all by the Indian government that does not feel that are any problems with the education system. I know everyone has their charities at home that they already give too but being here and seeing how hard working the staff are (they get paid about $120 a month.) and they put so much work into providing for these kids with no overhead bureaucratic and administrative fees I am determined to try to help because I can't imagine even one of these kids on the street again.
Check out their web site if even just to see what I have been up to for the past week and some basichumanneeds.net
And on top of everything else that has made this past week amazing I have made a good friend in Jessica. I will head out on Friday and not sure where or with whom but I really hope to be able to get to Varanassi at the end of the trip to see the kids and the school. Well nap time is over and the kids are up with fresh energy, I think I should have been napping too.
The Taj to Delhi- The last Shuana leg
We took an overnight train to Agra and were a little tired when we arrived. We were both instantly glad we had saved this part till the end of our trip. Everything that people warn you about India is in Agra. Everything was a fight to get where and what we wanted. After fighting with our rishshaw driver to get to our hotel we were then cheated by our hotel to get a taxi to Fatepur Sikri. We were not quite certain what we were going to see so we caved to one of the goverment authorized guides that seemed to speak English well. Once we had agreed he quickly changed guides on us and sent us on our way. Our new guide was unable to answer or understand any of our questions, he would not let us take pictures while he was talking and instead of protecting us from all the people selling things he brought us to all his friends and tried to guilt us into buying things. Little did he reaize Shauna and I have grown up with more then our fair share of guilt and this really only produced an angry reaction. Although we had a whole bunch of articulate complaints to tell him him opted for walking away without tipping.
The next morning we attempted to get up for sunrise, as this is the best time to visit the Taj Mahal. Athough we missed sunrise by a little bit it didn't really matter as it was soo smoggy that the sun was not to actually be seen for a few hours. The Taj was pretty spectacular but still not sure it was worth dealing with Agra. We were all kicked out of the Taj by 7am as the president of Turkmenistan was coming for a visit. Is that really even a country?
After a few more sights, a fort, palace and the baby Taj, we attempted to catch the train to Delhi. As it was full, we had to fight with several taxi drivers and were both very upset that we had to spend $25 each on a 5 hour ride to Delhi. We were both completely aware we were not putting this in perspective, but unable not to be annoyed.
To sum up Delhi, it was big and dirty. We spent our nights hiding in our aircon and watching tv and the days shopping at the many bazaars (As if we hadn't bought enough stuff already.) It was a little embarassing running into other backpackers with our backpacks on our backs and a huge army duffle bag of stuff between us.
After a very nice pedicure, where it was a little embarassing how hard to was for him to scrap all the dirt off of my filthy India feet, I had to say good bye to Shauna . But I met right up with friend of a friend- Jess and her son Shivam to head up to Almora for the next leg of my trip.
The next morning we attempted to get up for sunrise, as this is the best time to visit the Taj Mahal. Athough we missed sunrise by a little bit it didn't really matter as it was soo smoggy that the sun was not to actually be seen for a few hours. The Taj was pretty spectacular but still not sure it was worth dealing with Agra. We were all kicked out of the Taj by 7am as the president of Turkmenistan was coming for a visit. Is that really even a country?
After a few more sights, a fort, palace and the baby Taj, we attempted to catch the train to Delhi. As it was full, we had to fight with several taxi drivers and were both very upset that we had to spend $25 each on a 5 hour ride to Delhi. We were both completely aware we were not putting this in perspective, but unable not to be annoyed.
To sum up Delhi, it was big and dirty. We spent our nights hiding in our aircon and watching tv and the days shopping at the many bazaars (As if we hadn't bought enough stuff already.) It was a little embarassing running into other backpackers with our backpacks on our backs and a huge army duffle bag of stuff between us.
After a very nice pedicure, where it was a little embarassing how hard to was for him to scrap all the dirt off of my filthy India feet, I had to say good bye to Shauna . But I met right up with friend of a friend- Jess and her son Shivam to head up to Almora for the next leg of my trip.
Sunday, May 23, 2010
Jaiselmer- Even hotter
Depsite being warned not to take the bus in the middle of the day, Shauna and I were determinded to prove we were robust travellers. (We also might have slept in because we were drinking the night before.) This proved to be our biggest adventure yet.
It is school holiday time in India and whole families are taking the bus to vacation but not buying seats. So when 3 women with new born babies got on the bus and attmepted to stand for the ride, our 2 seater quickly turned into a 5 seater with a mom and baby, and a 2 year old on my lap. The rest of the children just leaned forward on our seat a foot from out face staring at us. Although we will only be in India for a short time the amount of pictures that have been taken of us will assure our presence here for years to come.
After our long sweaty bus ride we headed straight to the budget hotel which stated it had a pool. But when our AC konked out, we had no sheets or towels and the pool was green, we headed out to find a "mid-range" option. ( or maybe a mid-aged option) We were stopped by the manager to look at their new hotel. For $5 more per person we are staying at a newly built luxury hotel. It is gorgeous and we do not want to leave... ever. We were so happy with them that we decided to book out camel safari with them. Even though there was a 47 degree forcast our tour guide said it was "no problem." And then gave the Indian head wobble...
Needing a break from Indian food we headed to an Italian restuarant. Although this may seem obvious, when in India eat Indian food.
The next day we headed out on our 2 day camel safari. And I will now copy directly from Shauna's group email
" WE spent 2 days veiwing cactus type bushes, dry rocky terrain, local villagers comingto get water from their wells, wandering goats and a few scattered gazelles. We spent the night sleeping open on the dunes under the starry skies while our guide along with his 10 year helper ( that he told us was 17 or 18 to soothe, I'm sure, our disdain of child labour), made us dinner, packed and unpacked the farting camels, sang aloud, and intimated to us that he didn't get paid much by the camel safaria people -- but if we are happy he is double happy-- we are his guests. The french couple we were with could hardly eat, and had been obviously been promised quite a different safari (they were expecting a camp and a buffet dinner, not blankets of the sand and rice, daal and chapatis cooked on the open fire) and did not do so well. The next day they went home early by a jeep that came and met us while we took the afternoon to rest under a tree. Yodi and I were a little smug, commenting to ourselves once again that our robust appetites and sturdy bodies seems to cope remarkably well with the heat and all these so called "stomach viruses" everyone else seemed to be troubled by. We later heard that yesterday while we were trekking inthe desert, the temperatures reached a record breaking 49 degrees celcius and had to really question whether we are making really good travel choices--and wondering when our smugness will come to bite us in out disease riddled behinds.
But today we are back at 'er. Eating ice-cream, shopping out little hearts out, and getting told that almost every shop and restuarant is closed--" Now is not the busy time. It's very very hot." Yes. We know. "
So we will head back to our hotel for a little AC and somemore amazing Indian food before heading east tomorrow.
It is school holiday time in India and whole families are taking the bus to vacation but not buying seats. So when 3 women with new born babies got on the bus and attmepted to stand for the ride, our 2 seater quickly turned into a 5 seater with a mom and baby, and a 2 year old on my lap. The rest of the children just leaned forward on our seat a foot from out face staring at us. Although we will only be in India for a short time the amount of pictures that have been taken of us will assure our presence here for years to come.
After our long sweaty bus ride we headed straight to the budget hotel which stated it had a pool. But when our AC konked out, we had no sheets or towels and the pool was green, we headed out to find a "mid-range" option. ( or maybe a mid-aged option) We were stopped by the manager to look at their new hotel. For $5 more per person we are staying at a newly built luxury hotel. It is gorgeous and we do not want to leave... ever. We were so happy with them that we decided to book out camel safari with them. Even though there was a 47 degree forcast our tour guide said it was "no problem." And then gave the Indian head wobble...
Needing a break from Indian food we headed to an Italian restuarant. Although this may seem obvious, when in India eat Indian food.
The next day we headed out on our 2 day camel safari. And I will now copy directly from Shauna's group email
" WE spent 2 days veiwing cactus type bushes, dry rocky terrain, local villagers comingto get water from their wells, wandering goats and a few scattered gazelles. We spent the night sleeping open on the dunes under the starry skies while our guide along with his 10 year helper ( that he told us was 17 or 18 to soothe, I'm sure, our disdain of child labour), made us dinner, packed and unpacked the farting camels, sang aloud, and intimated to us that he didn't get paid much by the camel safaria people -- but if we are happy he is double happy-- we are his guests. The french couple we were with could hardly eat, and had been obviously been promised quite a different safari (they were expecting a camp and a buffet dinner, not blankets of the sand and rice, daal and chapatis cooked on the open fire) and did not do so well. The next day they went home early by a jeep that came and met us while we took the afternoon to rest under a tree. Yodi and I were a little smug, commenting to ourselves once again that our robust appetites and sturdy bodies seems to cope remarkably well with the heat and all these so called "stomach viruses" everyone else seemed to be troubled by. We later heard that yesterday while we were trekking inthe desert, the temperatures reached a record breaking 49 degrees celcius and had to really question whether we are making really good travel choices--and wondering when our smugness will come to bite us in out disease riddled behinds.
But today we are back at 'er. Eating ice-cream, shopping out little hearts out, and getting told that almost every shop and restuarant is closed--" Now is not the busy time. It's very very hot." Yes. We know. "
So we will head back to our hotel for a little AC and somemore amazing Indian food before heading east tomorrow.
Jodhpur- Yes like the pants
As we keep congradulating oursleves on how well we our dealing with the heat, we took a 7 hour non AC bus to Jodhpur. Very hot, very long enough said.
Jodhpur is known as the blue city and yes it is literally painted blue. We rode around the blue city in a rickshaw and were again stunned by the history, artistry and magnificence of this province. Stunned as well by the smells, the shit and the cows everywhere. After a day we were ready to head to Jaiselmer.
Jodhpur is known as the blue city and yes it is literally painted blue. We rode around the blue city in a rickshaw and were again stunned by the history, artistry and magnificence of this province. Stunned as well by the smells, the shit and the cows everywhere. After a day we were ready to head to Jaiselmer.
Udaipur
As our plane landed in Udaipur the captain announced 43 degree heat at 7:30pm! We hopped in a cab and noticed first off that the heat was different than Goa. Although at these temperatures hot is hot.
The next morning in a fruitless attempt to beat the heat we headed out at 8am ( yes that is early for a traveller) to see temples and palaces. At 8:15am and one temple down, we realized nothing else was open til 945am. So we made ourselves comfortable at a hole in the wall restaurant and drank chai and ate samosas until the heat of the day.
After a tour of the city palace, we thought we could sneak to the 7 star hotel palace that is usually in the middle of the lake. Since it was mostly dried up we headed out in the full force of the afternoon sun on the muckish lake bed. This turned into a 2 hour walk in direct sunlight with no shade, no water and no map. And no, they would not let our muddy feet even near the palace.
Fortunately we recovered from our walk to still manage a few hours of shopping before our cooking lesson. This combined 2 of Shauna and Yodi's favorite things, paper and pen classroom learning and food. Right now we have the best intentions to cook for our family and friends but we will see what happened when we return.
The next morning in a fruitless attempt to beat the heat we headed out at 8am ( yes that is early for a traveller) to see temples and palaces. At 8:15am and one temple down, we realized nothing else was open til 945am. So we made ourselves comfortable at a hole in the wall restaurant and drank chai and ate samosas until the heat of the day.
After a tour of the city palace, we thought we could sneak to the 7 star hotel palace that is usually in the middle of the lake. Since it was mostly dried up we headed out in the full force of the afternoon sun on the muckish lake bed. This turned into a 2 hour walk in direct sunlight with no shade, no water and no map. And no, they would not let our muddy feet even near the palace.
Fortunately we recovered from our walk to still manage a few hours of shopping before our cooking lesson. This combined 2 of Shauna and Yodi's favorite things, paper and pen classroom learning and food. Right now we have the best intentions to cook for our family and friends but we will see what happened when we return.
Goan slow in the heat.
From Mumbai we headed to Goa. Feeling luxurious we opted for 2nd class AC train. Passing by a goat on the platform and watching the arms dangle out of the windows in general seating we were happy with our decision.
Although not the lap of luxury we met a lovely Scottish couple who were on the bunks above us. As much as we love telling our stories to eachother it was nice to have a new audience. Right across from us was a nice Belgium couple we met on the Bollywood set. (fresh with bed bug bites reaffirming to Shauna and I we are no longer budget travellers)
We headed to Anjuna where Shauna promised everyone painted elephants at the night market. Despite having a master's in English, Shauna cannot read. So when we showed up at sundown for the market everyone was closing shop for the season and it was dark. Fortunately we had been drinking on the beach all afternoon which prevented us from getting too upset. Instead we had a nice dinner with new friends and headed home to our first night with no AC- it is soo much cheaper!
We spent the next two days on mopeds that cost under $4 per person per day. We rode up and down the coast line drinking lassi's, eating seafood and baring our bodies innapropriately. We had to continually repeat the mantra "Stay left! Stay left!" and when we would forget responded well to shouts of " Hey Madam, where are you going?" No helmets either, so don't tell our moms.
After our 2nd night of no AC (only happened because we felt pressured by other "real backpacers" ) we promised eachother to never pretend again that we can sleep in the heat.
After one more day on lounging on the beach, drinking good coffee and getting a pinkish hue, we hopped a plane to Udaipur, in the province of Rajisthan.
Although not the lap of luxury we met a lovely Scottish couple who were on the bunks above us. As much as we love telling our stories to eachother it was nice to have a new audience. Right across from us was a nice Belgium couple we met on the Bollywood set. (fresh with bed bug bites reaffirming to Shauna and I we are no longer budget travellers)
We headed to Anjuna where Shauna promised everyone painted elephants at the night market. Despite having a master's in English, Shauna cannot read. So when we showed up at sundown for the market everyone was closing shop for the season and it was dark. Fortunately we had been drinking on the beach all afternoon which prevented us from getting too upset. Instead we had a nice dinner with new friends and headed home to our first night with no AC- it is soo much cheaper!
We spent the next two days on mopeds that cost under $4 per person per day. We rode up and down the coast line drinking lassi's, eating seafood and baring our bodies innapropriately. We had to continually repeat the mantra "Stay left! Stay left!" and when we would forget responded well to shouts of " Hey Madam, where are you going?" No helmets either, so don't tell our moms.
After our 2nd night of no AC (only happened because we felt pressured by other "real backpacers" ) we promised eachother to never pretend again that we can sleep in the heat.
After one more day on lounging on the beach, drinking good coffee and getting a pinkish hue, we hopped a plane to Udaipur, in the province of Rajisthan.
Bollywood Bling
Shauna and I arrived on set giddy with excitement and to a big breakfast. We were then rushed off to hairdressing, where they spent close to an hour blowing drying my hair. Which was to make more sense later as the only talent Shauna and I displayed was that of being blond.
Although there was a Bollywood star on stage and a famous Bollywood director, we actually were shooting a "Bling" cell phone comercial. Our little excursion turned out to be a whole day affair as we became the token blondes that seem to be need in everyshot. But we were served 4 delicious buffet meals and since we will do anything for food the 700 rupees we earned was just a little spneding money for later.
Look for us soon on a u-tube video near you- we are all the blonds.
The next day we headed to Elephanta caves which is a gigantic Hindu temple carved out of one rock. This was where we realized out complete and utter ignorance to one of the world's oldest religions. Islam, Judaism and Christianity all seem like variations on the same theme but Hinduism is a whole other world. To our embarassment we keep being surprised there are so many devote followers. And we are still not sure of what to make of all the variations of idols and gods ie small rocks with googlie eyes in a shrine.
Although there was a Bollywood star on stage and a famous Bollywood director, we actually were shooting a "Bling" cell phone comercial. Our little excursion turned out to be a whole day affair as we became the token blondes that seem to be need in everyshot. But we were served 4 delicious buffet meals and since we will do anything for food the 700 rupees we earned was just a little spneding money for later.
Look for us soon on a u-tube video near you- we are all the blonds.
The next day we headed to Elephanta caves which is a gigantic Hindu temple carved out of one rock. This was where we realized out complete and utter ignorance to one of the world's oldest religions. Islam, Judaism and Christianity all seem like variations on the same theme but Hinduism is a whole other world. To our embarassment we keep being surprised there are so many devote followers. And we are still not sure of what to make of all the variations of idols and gods ie small rocks with googlie eyes in a shrine.
Sunday, May 9, 2010
I like Bombay and I cannot lie....
The trip started well with being upgraded to first class. Yes, it was everything I have always dreamed about! Lots of food and seats that practically lay down.
Shauna found me easily enough and our adventure began. So far so good. I am already loving all the sights and sounds of Bombay/ Mumbai. Not so much the smells. We seem to be handling the heat well so far, and accepting the constant sweat dripping from us. Of course we took a room with air conditioning and are right now taking refuge from the 40degree heat in an internet cafe.
Many people warned me to be prepared for India and that it was going to be hard, and it is hard, but it has also been different then I expected. The people are lovely and kind (for the most part.) Shauna and I just spent the afternoon with the women at the Haji Ali Mosque who were so excited to sit and talk with us and brought us in to say a prayer and get blessed. Despite feeling like we were in a sauna and were being pushed to the front of a concert at the same time, it was pretty amazing.
We have already started on what I am sure is going to be a few week long shopping spree and the markets are so much fun and so cheap!
We were also asked to be extras in a Bollywood movie tomorrow, there was no need to ask us twice. Shauna is debating whether or not she is going to have to send 15% of the 500 rupees ($10) to her agent in Vancouver. They had Shauna and I with "free breakfast and lunch."
One and a half days in and we are not sick yet but I will keep you all posted.
Shauna found me easily enough and our adventure began. So far so good. I am already loving all the sights and sounds of Bombay/ Mumbai. Not so much the smells. We seem to be handling the heat well so far, and accepting the constant sweat dripping from us. Of course we took a room with air conditioning and are right now taking refuge from the 40degree heat in an internet cafe.
Many people warned me to be prepared for India and that it was going to be hard, and it is hard, but it has also been different then I expected. The people are lovely and kind (for the most part.) Shauna and I just spent the afternoon with the women at the Haji Ali Mosque who were so excited to sit and talk with us and brought us in to say a prayer and get blessed. Despite feeling like we were in a sauna and were being pushed to the front of a concert at the same time, it was pretty amazing.
We have already started on what I am sure is going to be a few week long shopping spree and the markets are so much fun and so cheap!
We were also asked to be extras in a Bollywood movie tomorrow, there was no need to ask us twice. Shauna is debating whether or not she is going to have to send 15% of the 500 rupees ($10) to her agent in Vancouver. They had Shauna and I with "free breakfast and lunch."
One and a half days in and we are not sick yet but I will keep you all posted.
Tuesday, May 4, 2010
The Holy Land
Our fear of borders has evolved from fear to excitement. We breezed through security with no issues. We did notice however that Israel is a little more serious about security than Jordan or Egypt. I mean, Jordanian immigration flirted with Yode and gave her an extra month on her visa just so she would stay longer.
We were finally here! We triumphantly entered Jerusalem. On my friend Clare's recomendation, we did a free tour of Jerusalem, and got the low down on the four quarters of the old city... Jewish, Muslim, Christian, Armenian. 2 points to anyone who knows why the Armenians get a quarter. Oh we don't know either, both of us tuned out for a second. For me some soldier with a gun walked by (a new obsession of mine) and Yode has the attention span of a 4 year old... her words not mine.
We saw some amazing sights, the place of the crucifixion, the place of the ascension to heaven, the garden of Gethsemane and the stations of the cross (where Jesus walked with the cross.) To be honest our reactions to these sights were mixed and might be worth a longer conversation later. Striking was the tourists that rent crosses to carry them through the streets. We didn't check on the going "cross rate"... not our style.
Bethleham was the most interesting. Specifically crossing over to Palestine in the West Bank. There were a lot of moments on this trip where I felt slightly ignorant of world politics, but this was the worst. The wall surrounding Palestine was unnerving. Again, perhaps a conversation for later.
A notable moment for me was a soldier with a gun at the checkpoint. Wow, do they get models to do this work?
We went off the beaten tourist path and explored the markets of Bethleham. We got caught in a random rain storm and had to take shelter under a tarp with a bunch of Palestinians, who welcomed us with perfect English. Yode wants me to mention that Bethleham had the best shwarma yet this trip. Neither of these things were what we were expecting from Bethleham.
Jerusalem with its Suqs and sights tired us out a bit. However we woke up early Sunday to see one more sight, The Dome of The Rock. Again, one more insight into the difficult religous/political situation here, as this one rock is sacred to Jews, Muslims and Christians.
We left Jerusalem tired and thoughtful, and welcomed the laid back style of Tel Aviv. Arriving in Tel Aviv, we saw people walking around practically naked. Strapless dresses, tank tops, and shorts! There were people jogging in the streets in tight work out gear and lounging in bathing suites, these people should be ashamed. Wait a minute, did we just find the Isreali Kitsilano? To be honest, my slight self esteem issues had warmed to the conservative Muslim and Jewish dress codes. Great, I would have to look at my body again... worse yet, I would have to look at Yode's!
We had planned to stay for only 2 nights in Tel Aviv and then move on to the North, but we have now discovered a new passion .. surfing. We tried surfing in Brazil, but as our instructor didn't speak english, this didn't go well (the only thing we learned there was the portugues word for wave). We had high hopes for Tel Aviv. It turns out that our surfing instructor was from Newfoundland. Strangley, this did not actually help us surf. We are going out again tomorrow, despite the fact that the act of typing kinda hurts Yode's arms and I think I might have broken my toe.
We also had the chance to meet up with my friend Clare's parents and her cousin for a nice night out. We spent some time talking to Clare's cousin regarding all our questions on Isreal that we thought might be inapproapriate to ask. Turns out she thought we were funny, not inappropriate. I think we might have been a bit of both .. and a little tipsy.
We still have a few days left before I head home and Yode heads to India, so I will leave it up to Yode to update her blog from now on. I have a feeling she might pawn this off again. Shauna beware. Guest writer out.
We were finally here! We triumphantly entered Jerusalem. On my friend Clare's recomendation, we did a free tour of Jerusalem, and got the low down on the four quarters of the old city... Jewish, Muslim, Christian, Armenian. 2 points to anyone who knows why the Armenians get a quarter. Oh we don't know either, both of us tuned out for a second. For me some soldier with a gun walked by (a new obsession of mine) and Yode has the attention span of a 4 year old... her words not mine.
We saw some amazing sights, the place of the crucifixion, the place of the ascension to heaven, the garden of Gethsemane and the stations of the cross (where Jesus walked with the cross.) To be honest our reactions to these sights were mixed and might be worth a longer conversation later. Striking was the tourists that rent crosses to carry them through the streets. We didn't check on the going "cross rate"... not our style.
Bethleham was the most interesting. Specifically crossing over to Palestine in the West Bank. There were a lot of moments on this trip where I felt slightly ignorant of world politics, but this was the worst. The wall surrounding Palestine was unnerving. Again, perhaps a conversation for later.
A notable moment for me was a soldier with a gun at the checkpoint. Wow, do they get models to do this work?
We went off the beaten tourist path and explored the markets of Bethleham. We got caught in a random rain storm and had to take shelter under a tarp with a bunch of Palestinians, who welcomed us with perfect English. Yode wants me to mention that Bethleham had the best shwarma yet this trip. Neither of these things were what we were expecting from Bethleham.
Jerusalem with its Suqs and sights tired us out a bit. However we woke up early Sunday to see one more sight, The Dome of The Rock. Again, one more insight into the difficult religous/political situation here, as this one rock is sacred to Jews, Muslims and Christians.
We left Jerusalem tired and thoughtful, and welcomed the laid back style of Tel Aviv. Arriving in Tel Aviv, we saw people walking around practically naked. Strapless dresses, tank tops, and shorts! There were people jogging in the streets in tight work out gear and lounging in bathing suites, these people should be ashamed. Wait a minute, did we just find the Isreali Kitsilano? To be honest, my slight self esteem issues had warmed to the conservative Muslim and Jewish dress codes. Great, I would have to look at my body again... worse yet, I would have to look at Yode's!
We had planned to stay for only 2 nights in Tel Aviv and then move on to the North, but we have now discovered a new passion .. surfing. We tried surfing in Brazil, but as our instructor didn't speak english, this didn't go well (the only thing we learned there was the portugues word for wave). We had high hopes for Tel Aviv. It turns out that our surfing instructor was from Newfoundland. Strangley, this did not actually help us surf. We are going out again tomorrow, despite the fact that the act of typing kinda hurts Yode's arms and I think I might have broken my toe.
We also had the chance to meet up with my friend Clare's parents and her cousin for a nice night out. We spent some time talking to Clare's cousin regarding all our questions on Isreal that we thought might be inapproapriate to ask. Turns out she thought we were funny, not inappropriate. I think we might have been a bit of both .. and a little tipsy.
We still have a few days left before I head home and Yode heads to India, so I will leave it up to Yode to update her blog from now on. I have a feeling she might pawn this off again. Shauna beware. Guest writer out.
Ahlan Wa Sahlam-Welcome to Jordan!
With a five hour wait at the ferry station (which resulted in the creation of my first blog entries) we finally made it to Jordan. We met up with a bunch of French Canadians and some Finnish people. We ended up sharing a cab with the Finnish people for a 2 hour ride to Wadi Musa (Moses Valley) outside of Petra. The cab ride annoyed me (perhaps lack of sleep) with the Finnish guy and the Arabic driver attempting to speak English to eachother... Neither of you are doing it right, kept running through my head.
Our taxi driver refused to take us to our chosen hotel and took us to his friends hotel. We are no fools. The Lonely Planet warned us about this. It also said that the hotel operater would then tell us that the hotel we wanted to go to had burnt down. When we arrived at the suggested hotel, they told us the other hotel had burnt down. This is where things got weird, Yode implied that he was lying. He then told us to leave as he was a Muslim man and did not lie. In fairness to Yode, we had not found this to be universally true. However, as he had offered us good deal, a broken English apology session then ensued and we ended up staying at the hotel. We later found out the other hotel had burnt down.
Petra-What can we say? No really, what can we say? We would need a thesaurus to accurately describe this incredible site, now voted one of the new wonders of the world. We spent 10 hours walking/hiking/exploring this park. The only mild set back was not packing a lunch as the Lonely Planet had told us, it is not like the Lonely Planet is always right... There was the taxi driver incident. So we hiked this world wonder on one snickers bar and a banana each.
Since we had finally established some trust with the hotel, they arranged a private tour of the rest of the sites in Jordan that we wanted to see. First stop, bathroom on the side of the road, do you guys think Yodi is ok? Dairn? Second, third and fourth stops, castles and pretty things. Apparently some Christian Soldiers came through her on some sort of "crusade"?
Fifth stop THE DEAD SEA!! They say this is the hottest place on earth. I don't think "they" have been to Luxor. This is the saltiest sea in the world, with 33.7% salinity and growing. As we had chosen to visit the Dead Sea on the Jordan side, wearing our bathing suits caused a bit of a stir. We also covered ourselves in dead sea mud, we are not sure why, but we no longer dared doubt the Lonely Planets advice. Although everybody knows you can float in the dead sea, our first words to eachother were "hey you really can float in this!" A very weird sensation.
A few girls wanted to take our picture and practice their English. Which was good, but consisted of " Where are you from?" and " What is your name?" and "Welcome to Jordan!" I loved the Jordanian people, they were so friendly and welcomed us every chance they got. We later found out that they use welcome as hello and good-bye.
We left the Dead Sea, after a quick stop by Mt. Nebo to view "The Land of Milk and Honey" Moses style, we proceeded to the town of Madaba. There we discovered even buying beer in this country was easier. The liquor store clerk gave us some excellent advice: " When we drink we get drunk. When we are drunk we go to sleep. When we sleep we don't sin. When we don't sin we go to heaven. So we should all drink and go to heaven." Any guesses on what religion he was? I don't know, I would have picked Calvinist if that didn't seem highly unlikely.
The next day we proceeded to Israel...
Our taxi driver refused to take us to our chosen hotel and took us to his friends hotel. We are no fools. The Lonely Planet warned us about this. It also said that the hotel operater would then tell us that the hotel we wanted to go to had burnt down. When we arrived at the suggested hotel, they told us the other hotel had burnt down. This is where things got weird, Yode implied that he was lying. He then told us to leave as he was a Muslim man and did not lie. In fairness to Yode, we had not found this to be universally true. However, as he had offered us good deal, a broken English apology session then ensued and we ended up staying at the hotel. We later found out the other hotel had burnt down.
Petra-What can we say? No really, what can we say? We would need a thesaurus to accurately describe this incredible site, now voted one of the new wonders of the world. We spent 10 hours walking/hiking/exploring this park. The only mild set back was not packing a lunch as the Lonely Planet had told us, it is not like the Lonely Planet is always right... There was the taxi driver incident. So we hiked this world wonder on one snickers bar and a banana each.
Since we had finally established some trust with the hotel, they arranged a private tour of the rest of the sites in Jordan that we wanted to see. First stop, bathroom on the side of the road, do you guys think Yodi is ok? Dairn? Second, third and fourth stops, castles and pretty things. Apparently some Christian Soldiers came through her on some sort of "crusade"?
Fifth stop THE DEAD SEA!! They say this is the hottest place on earth. I don't think "they" have been to Luxor. This is the saltiest sea in the world, with 33.7% salinity and growing. As we had chosen to visit the Dead Sea on the Jordan side, wearing our bathing suits caused a bit of a stir. We also covered ourselves in dead sea mud, we are not sure why, but we no longer dared doubt the Lonely Planets advice. Although everybody knows you can float in the dead sea, our first words to eachother were "hey you really can float in this!" A very weird sensation.
A few girls wanted to take our picture and practice their English. Which was good, but consisted of " Where are you from?" and " What is your name?" and "Welcome to Jordan!" I loved the Jordanian people, they were so friendly and welcomed us every chance they got. We later found out that they use welcome as hello and good-bye.
We left the Dead Sea, after a quick stop by Mt. Nebo to view "The Land of Milk and Honey" Moses style, we proceeded to the town of Madaba. There we discovered even buying beer in this country was easier. The liquor store clerk gave us some excellent advice: " When we drink we get drunk. When we are drunk we go to sleep. When we sleep we don't sin. When we don't sin we go to heaven. So we should all drink and go to heaven." Any guesses on what religion he was? I don't know, I would have picked Calvinist if that didn't seem highly unlikely.
The next day we proceeded to Israel...
Saturday, May 1, 2010
Wednesday, April 28, 2010
Luxor...if possible even hotter- then Dahab
In Luxor the Egyptian sun drove us to getting up early to visit the sites. We were all more impressed than we thought we would be. Having already been amazed by previous ancient Egyptian sites, we were still startled by the colour and magnitude of the Valley of the Kings and the Valley of the Queens. There was an amazing hike between the two sites that we didnt take. As you may have heard a theme in this blog, the heat got the better of me. I said I couldnt do it and Yode and Dairn complied, I felt like a wuss until an hour later, when the three of us were nearly passing out from the heat. Well Dairn andI were, Yode could hike to the top of Mt. Sinai in the middle of the night with 2 beers in her and not break a sweat... oh wait a minute she did. (Story later)
However Yode did have the best way to describe the heat to everyone at home. Ok you will need a friend for this experiment. Here it goes: Turn on the oven, open it and stand in front of it. Just when the sweat has started coming out of places you didn't know had sweat glands, get one of your friends to cool you off with a blowdryer... known here as "wind." For the true Luxor experience you should probably have said friend yelling at you asking where you are from and if you need a taxi.
The most amazing site was the temple of Karnak. Considered to be the largest religious building ever built, we felt small amidst the pillars and statues.
Spending the whole day in the pool to drop our core temperature back to "sane," we then took an 18 hour bus ride to Dahab. This must just have been the name of the bus, as the actual ride took 21 hours. We all got a little sleep and were very comfortable, no creepy men. The only slight set back for me was one of my contacts popped out while I was sleeping. This lead to a very confusing 10minutes at the bus stop, with fuzzy taxi drivers grabbing my bag, and me mistaking a back pack forDairn. I was wondering why he was just sitting there. Finally with my glasses on, we drove into Dahab and fell in love!
The Lonely Planet warns, careful you might never leave. The breeze from the Red Sea kept the town cool, the locals were friendly and fun. The town had plently of cheap beer and food to keep us happy.
Although Yode and I didn't know we had it in us we became expert divers. Well we dove twice... and our instructer said he thought we were very comfortable in the water... and I am sure he doesn't say that to everyone.
We stayed here longer then we thought as we lacked the will to leave.
Another huge highlight was hiking Mount Sinai. At first we thought we couldnt go as we mixed up the days of the week (travellers disease) However, after we had two beers our hotel suddenly said we could go that night. Ill timed beer. We would leave at 11pm, get there at 1pm, hike until 3am, watch the sunrise, and then hike an hour back. A little concerning but we didn't want to miss it, even though it was Dairn's last night and he desperately wanted to spend it with us going for a nice expensive seafood dinner. Yode ignored this request and after saying good bye to Dairn we left on our adventure.
The hike was a little trying for me, and Yode considered it quite a work out as well. Our Bedouin guide basically pulled me up the mountain. I was so exhausted I thought I saw a snake and didn't care. With thoughts of "maybe the snake will bite me and Iwill get to rest" we carried on. Although difficult, this was an experience, the sunrise and mountain beauty were breathtaking. Hopefully Ken will do the hike in a few days and will post some photos and additional adjectives on his blog. The way down was over the 3725 steps of repentance. This was much easier. The steps of repentence were built by a monk as an act of penance. The word "steps" should be used liberally... and really, what did that guy do?
On our last night in Dahab we met up with our new friend Ken and his friend Lawerence and finally had that sea food dinner Dairn had been craving.
Leaving Egypt was bitter sweet, but hopefully new adventures in Jordan await us!
However Yode did have the best way to describe the heat to everyone at home. Ok you will need a friend for this experiment. Here it goes: Turn on the oven, open it and stand in front of it. Just when the sweat has started coming out of places you didn't know had sweat glands, get one of your friends to cool you off with a blowdryer... known here as "wind." For the true Luxor experience you should probably have said friend yelling at you asking where you are from and if you need a taxi.
The most amazing site was the temple of Karnak. Considered to be the largest religious building ever built, we felt small amidst the pillars and statues.
Spending the whole day in the pool to drop our core temperature back to "sane," we then took an 18 hour bus ride to Dahab. This must just have been the name of the bus, as the actual ride took 21 hours. We all got a little sleep and were very comfortable, no creepy men. The only slight set back for me was one of my contacts popped out while I was sleeping. This lead to a very confusing 10minutes at the bus stop, with fuzzy taxi drivers grabbing my bag, and me mistaking a back pack forDairn. I was wondering why he was just sitting there. Finally with my glasses on, we drove into Dahab and fell in love!
The Lonely Planet warns, careful you might never leave. The breeze from the Red Sea kept the town cool, the locals were friendly and fun. The town had plently of cheap beer and food to keep us happy.
Although Yode and I didn't know we had it in us we became expert divers. Well we dove twice... and our instructer said he thought we were very comfortable in the water... and I am sure he doesn't say that to everyone.
We stayed here longer then we thought as we lacked the will to leave.
Another huge highlight was hiking Mount Sinai. At first we thought we couldnt go as we mixed up the days of the week (travellers disease) However, after we had two beers our hotel suddenly said we could go that night. Ill timed beer. We would leave at 11pm, get there at 1pm, hike until 3am, watch the sunrise, and then hike an hour back. A little concerning but we didn't want to miss it, even though it was Dairn's last night and he desperately wanted to spend it with us going for a nice expensive seafood dinner. Yode ignored this request and after saying good bye to Dairn we left on our adventure.
The hike was a little trying for me, and Yode considered it quite a work out as well. Our Bedouin guide basically pulled me up the mountain. I was so exhausted I thought I saw a snake and didn't care. With thoughts of "maybe the snake will bite me and Iwill get to rest" we carried on. Although difficult, this was an experience, the sunrise and mountain beauty were breathtaking. Hopefully Ken will do the hike in a few days and will post some photos and additional adjectives on his blog. The way down was over the 3725 steps of repentance. This was much easier. The steps of repentence were built by a monk as an act of penance. The word "steps" should be used liberally... and really, what did that guy do?
On our last night in Dahab we met up with our new friend Ken and his friend Lawerence and finally had that sea food dinner Dairn had been craving.
Leaving Egypt was bitter sweet, but hopefully new adventures in Jordan await us!
Aswan
Before we got to Aswan, my concern about the heat was steadily growing. In Cairo when we told Egyptians that we were heading to Aswan .. they would say "oh, its hot there." And its not here? 50degrees in the summer? Um .. when is summer?
Getting into Aswan, we stayed in a decent hotel that was made great by the small pool on the roof. It wasn't 50 degress, only around 40.
As Aswan was the place to organize Felucca trips down the Nile, we began to look for a sailboat to take us down the Nile to Edfu. We found a great captain named Captain Murad. We discovered later that he had chose us, as we seemed to fit into his laid back sailing style. Beers were not an issue for him, nor was anything really. I would descibe the trip, but why should I when someone else already has. Follow the link on the last blog entry "Yodi gets lazy" for more info.
Before we headed out on our Felucca trip we made it to Abu Simble, 3 hours outside of Aswan, an ancient egyptian place of worship. The only way to travel there was to leave at 3am and travel via convoy. The 3am was to beat the crazy heat, and the convoy was for our safety. No worries Mom, the last bombing in Eygpt was in Dahab in 2006. We get there later :) Still buses were stopped and police used mirrors to look under buses for bombs . I guess. They didn't actually seem to be looking. It also seemed for a little tip (baksheesh) your van was not checked. And although I appreciated the efforts of the Tourist Police in keeping us safe, Yode correctly pointed out that a convoy of 140 buses that is probably visable from space, might not be as safe as they think.
Arriving in Abu Simble, we were amazed by the statues and tombs. We were all less impressed when we found out the whole site had been moved when the Aswan Dam had flooded the original site in the1960's. Still cool though. They did a really good job moving it.
It was also interesting that the dam had flooded an entire country between Egypt and Sudan called Nubia. In fact, in what the Lonely planet describes as ironic, the Sudanese named their portion of the lake, lake Nubia. I wonder if the Nubians find it as funny as the Sudanese.
Getting into Aswan, we stayed in a decent hotel that was made great by the small pool on the roof. It wasn't 50 degress, only around 40.
As Aswan was the place to organize Felucca trips down the Nile, we began to look for a sailboat to take us down the Nile to Edfu. We found a great captain named Captain Murad. We discovered later that he had chose us, as we seemed to fit into his laid back sailing style. Beers were not an issue for him, nor was anything really. I would descibe the trip, but why should I when someone else already has. Follow the link on the last blog entry "Yodi gets lazy" for more info.
Before we headed out on our Felucca trip we made it to Abu Simble, 3 hours outside of Aswan, an ancient egyptian place of worship. The only way to travel there was to leave at 3am and travel via convoy. The 3am was to beat the crazy heat, and the convoy was for our safety. No worries Mom, the last bombing in Eygpt was in Dahab in 2006. We get there later :) Still buses were stopped and police used mirrors to look under buses for bombs . I guess. They didn't actually seem to be looking. It also seemed for a little tip (baksheesh) your van was not checked. And although I appreciated the efforts of the Tourist Police in keeping us safe, Yode correctly pointed out that a convoy of 140 buses that is probably visable from space, might not be as safe as they think.
Arriving in Abu Simble, we were amazed by the statues and tombs. We were all less impressed when we found out the whole site had been moved when the Aswan Dam had flooded the original site in the1960's. Still cool though. They did a really good job moving it.
It was also interesting that the dam had flooded an entire country between Egypt and Sudan called Nubia. In fact, in what the Lonely planet describes as ironic, the Sudanese named their portion of the lake, lake Nubia. I wonder if the Nubians find it as funny as the Sudanese.
Krista in Cairo
A little worried about my first blogging experience. The same rules of spelling and grammer apply to my blog that Yode has previously outline. Also, this key board seems to only have a "c" 50% of the time, so bear with me.
On the plane from London to Cairo, I realized that I had a number of preconcieved notions about Egypt. My fellow pasengers were mostly British, there were no scary men or woman in burquas as I was lead to believe. Breezing through custums, Yode and I met up with enough exitement to be noted by many around us. We talked non stop as she filled me in on Egypt.. not really that scary, very safe and very cheap. Arriving at the hotel Dairn and Yode seemed ok with me joining thier holiday. Dumping my stuff, I took my first walk down the Cairo Streets. Things flew at me quickly.. the heat, the busy streets, strangely dressed women (well they didn't fly at me. .. you know what I mean .. first blog entry, give me a break). 5 Mintues into this walk a man walked up to Yode and I and tryed to grabour breasts. I guess my t-shirt and capris did suggest I was a bit east. I saw it coming and ducked behind Yode. He only got her ..poor guy. Only one day into my vacation and I already learbed something about myself .. I would not be good in a war situation. "Hey are those bullets, don't mind if I duck behind you do you?".
Besidesthe intial culture shock the sites and sounds of Cairo won me over. We spent the time wandering, getting a flavour of the streets.. and I mean flavour .. man can Yode and Dairn eat! Ancient sites and modern Islam, loud calls to prayer, quite mosques, bustling market squares, sheeshas and coffee shops, no alocohol and heat .. everything came at me fast, including the cars. I could have been the jet lag too.
Most of the time I blindly followed the pattern and rythym of Yode and Dairn, who thought nothing of the hear and the sand blowing in thier faces. Apparently they had just been in some sort of desert?
The first day included a trip to the Pyramids. Although the Pyramids were pretty much what you would think, the architecture was mind blowing. They were constructed over 4000 years ago and they are still completly straight. I can't even get my pragoda staight (I use "I" liberally .. thanks again Jeff and Steve)
Then on to the Egyptians Musuem.. mummies! First thought "wow that Ramses was short" second thought "air conditioning!". Crocodile mumies and Pharoahs, you could touh something made 4000 years ago. Well you could , but the "no touch" sign seemed to suggest otherwise. However someone has also arved thier name into the statues so ..I thought I quick feel would be ok.
This is where I began to notice the iron clad security that we were to find all over Egypt. Every loation has sensors, but Egyptians are a trusting lot. The one time Yode was "busted" with her jack knife, they told her "no carving." She promised. I guess there was no reason to mistrust her, she does have blonde hair. Dairn suggested that we hire ourselves out as mercenaries, we would have a 100% success rate.
Canadians seem well recieved. Apparently Egyptians were a huge fan a a drink that has bee off the market here for a while called "Canada Dry". We are often greeted with "Canada Dry, Never Die". We have picked it up now, just saying that we are from Canada Dry. Apparently very funny.
Cairo was my first expereince in a completely Muslim country. The hissing and the marraige offers were at first off putting. Hats off to Dairn to taking this "problem" and turning it into an oppurtunity. Chants of "lucky man, two wifes" were responded to by Dairn with, "how many camels ". I guess someone had to pay for his vacation. We think he was joking ... right ? Dairn?
On the plane from London to Cairo, I realized that I had a number of preconcieved notions about Egypt. My fellow pasengers were mostly British, there were no scary men or woman in burquas as I was lead to believe. Breezing through custums, Yode and I met up with enough exitement to be noted by many around us. We talked non stop as she filled me in on Egypt.. not really that scary, very safe and very cheap. Arriving at the hotel Dairn and Yode seemed ok with me joining thier holiday. Dumping my stuff, I took my first walk down the Cairo Streets. Things flew at me quickly.. the heat, the busy streets, strangely dressed women (well they didn't fly at me. .. you know what I mean .. first blog entry, give me a break). 5 Mintues into this walk a man walked up to Yode and I and tryed to grabour breasts. I guess my t-shirt and capris did suggest I was a bit east. I saw it coming and ducked behind Yode. He only got her ..poor guy. Only one day into my vacation and I already learbed something about myself .. I would not be good in a war situation. "Hey are those bullets, don't mind if I duck behind you do you?".
Besidesthe intial culture shock the sites and sounds of Cairo won me over. We spent the time wandering, getting a flavour of the streets.. and I mean flavour .. man can Yode and Dairn eat! Ancient sites and modern Islam, loud calls to prayer, quite mosques, bustling market squares, sheeshas and coffee shops, no alocohol and heat .. everything came at me fast, including the cars. I could have been the jet lag too.
Most of the time I blindly followed the pattern and rythym of Yode and Dairn, who thought nothing of the hear and the sand blowing in thier faces. Apparently they had just been in some sort of desert?
The first day included a trip to the Pyramids. Although the Pyramids were pretty much what you would think, the architecture was mind blowing. They were constructed over 4000 years ago and they are still completly straight. I can't even get my pragoda staight (I use "I" liberally .. thanks again Jeff and Steve)
Then on to the Egyptians Musuem.. mummies! First thought "wow that Ramses was short" second thought "air conditioning!". Crocodile mumies and Pharoahs, you could touh something made 4000 years ago. Well you could , but the "no touch" sign seemed to suggest otherwise. However someone has also arved thier name into the statues so ..I thought I quick feel would be ok.
This is where I began to notice the iron clad security that we were to find all over Egypt. Every loation has sensors, but Egyptians are a trusting lot. The one time Yode was "busted" with her jack knife, they told her "no carving." She promised. I guess there was no reason to mistrust her, she does have blonde hair. Dairn suggested that we hire ourselves out as mercenaries, we would have a 100% success rate.
Canadians seem well recieved. Apparently Egyptians were a huge fan a a drink that has bee off the market here for a while called "Canada Dry". We are often greeted with "Canada Dry, Never Die". We have picked it up now, just saying that we are from Canada Dry. Apparently very funny.
Cairo was my first expereince in a completely Muslim country. The hissing and the marraige offers were at first off putting. Hats off to Dairn to taking this "problem" and turning it into an oppurtunity. Chants of "lucky man, two wifes" were responded to by Dairn with, "how many camels ". I guess someone had to pay for his vacation. We think he was joking ... right ? Dairn?
Yodi gets lazy
Although tcchnically I have nothing but free time, it has been difficult to find any. I am very far behind on writing up my adventures and it feels like a lot of work to catch-up, (which I am obviously trying to avoid) so in lieu of this I am posting a link to my new friend Ken's blog. Not only has he done an amazing write-up of our cruise up the Nile, he included pictures on his blog.
The Lost Backpacker
As well, I have asked Krista to be a guest writer on my blog, and she has graciously accepted. Now I just need to find someone to manage my facebook and write my postcards for me.
Stay tuned for Krista!
The Lost Backpacker
As well, I have asked Krista to be a guest writer on my blog, and she has graciously accepted. Now I just need to find someone to manage my facebook and write my postcards for me.
Stay tuned for Krista!
Tuesday, April 13, 2010
Cairo/ KRISTA IS HERE!!!
Yep we are now a trio now!
Briefly, Cairo is great! Yes it is dirty and noisy, but not as bad as I thought it might be. Highlights: The Pyramids, and the mummies. Really gross to see their hair and eyelashes, etc. Went for an amazing dinner on the Nile with our new friends Omar and Frea. And then spent the days wandering the very impressive city and seeing lots of bazaars and markets and mosques.
Then, just in case Krista thought she was going to get any rest on this vacation, we bought over night train tickets to Aswan 2 days after she arrived. Which is where we are now. Krista and Dairn are sleeping and I am once again trying to upload the pictures off my camera. My camera has been amazing and it is totally water, shock, dust, proof but not theft proof and I am soo scared of losing my photos!
Hoping to be out of contact and cruising the Nile for a few days soon!
Briefly, Cairo is great! Yes it is dirty and noisy, but not as bad as I thought it might be. Highlights: The Pyramids, and the mummies. Really gross to see their hair and eyelashes, etc. Went for an amazing dinner on the Nile with our new friends Omar and Frea. And then spent the days wandering the very impressive city and seeing lots of bazaars and markets and mosques.
Then, just in case Krista thought she was going to get any rest on this vacation, we bought over night train tickets to Aswan 2 days after she arrived. Which is where we are now. Krista and Dairn are sleeping and I am once again trying to upload the pictures off my camera. My camera has been amazing and it is totally water, shock, dust, proof but not theft proof and I am soo scared of losing my photos!
Hoping to be out of contact and cruising the Nile for a few days soon!
Desert Detour Delight!
We were a little underwhelmed by Alexandria and headed West to Marsa Matrouh on the coast that was much smaller and quieter. Then we took the bus straight south to Siwa Oasis.
We had brief thoughts that we might be tried of the desert, but we were wrong. The Egyptian desert is totally different then the Tunisian one. The town of Siwa was so small and peaceful and everyone still rode donkey carts around town. We actually wanted to rent a donkey cart but we had to settle for bikes and spent the day biking to different hot springs in the desert and the oasis area. Actually most of the day was me braving taking my camera underwater for the first time and taking all sorts of under underwater videos and pictures. I have at least 5 videos of Dairn diving into the water. I know you will all be lining up for that video screening at my place when I return.
The next day we headed on a mini safari with our new friends, Omar, Frea and Ken. They had picked us up the night before to cut down on the cost of the trip. We had this amazing driver Tashtash who spent most of he time showing off to the other drivers how fast he could drive on the dunes and how big of dunes he could take his truck down. We really had the feeling that tourists were superfluos to their playing and taking videos of themselves. We swam/floated in a salt lake and then went to a hot spring to rinse off and then watch the sunset over the dunes and Libya.
Then after a very quick shower hopped on the over night bus to Cairo. This was not fun, it was cold and there was a creepy guy sitting next to me and annoying me the whole trip. Well another one besides Dairn.
We had brief thoughts that we might be tried of the desert, but we were wrong. The Egyptian desert is totally different then the Tunisian one. The town of Siwa was so small and peaceful and everyone still rode donkey carts around town. We actually wanted to rent a donkey cart but we had to settle for bikes and spent the day biking to different hot springs in the desert and the oasis area. Actually most of the day was me braving taking my camera underwater for the first time and taking all sorts of under underwater videos and pictures. I have at least 5 videos of Dairn diving into the water. I know you will all be lining up for that video screening at my place when I return.
The next day we headed on a mini safari with our new friends, Omar, Frea and Ken. They had picked us up the night before to cut down on the cost of the trip. We had this amazing driver Tashtash who spent most of he time showing off to the other drivers how fast he could drive on the dunes and how big of dunes he could take his truck down. We really had the feeling that tourists were superfluos to their playing and taking videos of themselves. We swam/floated in a salt lake and then went to a hot spring to rinse off and then watch the sunset over the dunes and Libya.
Then after a very quick shower hopped on the over night bus to Cairo. This was not fun, it was cold and there was a creepy guy sitting next to me and annoying me the whole trip. Well another one besides Dairn.
Saturday, April 3, 2010
Egypt So Far- Resting in Alexandria
We have not been here long but we have some initial obsevations.
For starters, do not let anyone do anything for you. At the airport, even past security, people in uniform were constantly trying to grab our bags to "help" us out and then ask for Baksheesh (a tip)
And secondly, it is a lot more conservative then Tunisia. most women here have head coverings and quite a few are in full burqas. We went to the beach yesterday to relax by the Mediterranean. Only to be the only foreigners there and all the women were swimming fully clothed. Very weird seeing a women using he beach shower to rinse out her burqa.
There are American food chains every where but we are still managing to eat at side of the road stands and restaurants. We found this amazing seafood restaurant in a back alley. For $6 Canadian they loaded our plate with fresh prawns, calamari, fish and clams. We spend the whole meal debating whether that was the best meal we had this vacation or not.
We think we are going to head to the Suez Canal next and then on to Cairo. We are a little at a loss of what to do next as some one forgot the full Lonely Planet Egypt at home (I'll give you a hint it wasn't me.) Any suggestions?
One more week until Krista gets here and I am soo excited to see her!
I hope everyone is enjoying their Easter weekend!!!
For starters, do not let anyone do anything for you. At the airport, even past security, people in uniform were constantly trying to grab our bags to "help" us out and then ask for Baksheesh (a tip)
And secondly, it is a lot more conservative then Tunisia. most women here have head coverings and quite a few are in full burqas. We went to the beach yesterday to relax by the Mediterranean. Only to be the only foreigners there and all the women were swimming fully clothed. Very weird seeing a women using he beach shower to rinse out her burqa.
There are American food chains every where but we are still managing to eat at side of the road stands and restaurants. We found this amazing seafood restaurant in a back alley. For $6 Canadian they loaded our plate with fresh prawns, calamari, fish and clams. We spend the whole meal debating whether that was the best meal we had this vacation or not.
We think we are going to head to the Suez Canal next and then on to Cairo. We are a little at a loss of what to do next as some one forgot the full Lonely Planet Egypt at home (I'll give you a hint it wasn't me.) Any suggestions?
One more week until Krista gets here and I am soo excited to see her!
I hope everyone is enjoying their Easter weekend!!!
Sunday, March 28, 2010
Our whirlwind tour of the north
After relaxing on the island of Jerba for a few days we headed out in another rental car to head north. The rental car has been great as it has allowed us to access all sorts of small towns and villages we never would have been able to get too. As well, it is has let us get to know the Tunisian police, or as we now refer to them , the Tunisian Welcoming Comittee.
They are basically at the entrance and exit to most towns. They usually just stand in the middle of the road and Dairn almost hit them a number of times. The first time we were pulled over ( we think for speeding) Dairn said he did not speak French and I did a little. The cop started laughing and speaking to the other police officer. He asked our Nationality and Dairn said Canadian, the police officer smiled and said we could continue and yelled after us , Welcome to Tunisia!
The next time we were pulled over it was because the cop wanted to point us in the right direction for the ruins we were trying to find, and he shook our hands and welcomed us.
The next time was more serious as I had illegally passed a car (after Dairn told me too) and the police actually asked for our passports, and with a big smile on his face, told me I did a wrong thing. That was the extent of his English so he said welcome and be careful, and let us continue. We are still hoping to get a photo with a police officer.
The police arent the only welcoming people; almost every Tunisian that helps us wants to take their pictures with us. Of course this feels quite normal for me, but I think Dairn has never received so much attention.
We have seen some incredable Roman ruins and visited some great beaches. The North is very green and lush and it feels more like driving through France than Tunisia.
The car has also let us do a tour of the side of the road food stands. Often we get an egg or chicken sandwich, depending on what the person thinks I am attempting to order. Our favorite has been the Brik L'oeuf, which is a pastry with some mashed potatoes, capers, spices, herbs and an egg cracked in the middle and deep fried.
After days of seeing dead sheep hanging outside on the highway beside bbq's, we also stopped and had the freshest, tastiest bbq'ed lamb ever! There is no doubt about what you are eating when the carcass is hanging in front of you as you chow down.
We are in a little town called Kelibia right now and have a great hotel with a sea view! Relaxing and doing laundry and eating the best sea food I have ever had. We met some Tunisians who directed us to a restuarant where you walk in on one side and and choose what fish you want (from a whole room full of every kind of fresh fish.) Then they weigh it and you go sit in the restaurant while they cook it for you. I don't think I have ever tasted anything so good nor eaten so much fish and calamari in one sitting. I still feel a little full and that was last night, but we are planning on going back again tonight. It was an expensive meal by Tunisian standards but cost about $15 Canadian for the whole thing, I love this country!
And yes, I realized I have talked a lot about food, but really would you expect anything else? And also to my delight fresh roasted almonds are sold at almost every little road side store. Not that there was ever any worries, but I am not going hungry :)
A few more days in Tunisia and we just bought are plane tickets this morning to head over to Egypt for the next adventure!
Thanks for all the emails, comments and texts so nice to hear from home.
They are basically at the entrance and exit to most towns. They usually just stand in the middle of the road and Dairn almost hit them a number of times. The first time we were pulled over ( we think for speeding) Dairn said he did not speak French and I did a little. The cop started laughing and speaking to the other police officer. He asked our Nationality and Dairn said Canadian, the police officer smiled and said we could continue and yelled after us , Welcome to Tunisia!
The next time we were pulled over it was because the cop wanted to point us in the right direction for the ruins we were trying to find, and he shook our hands and welcomed us.
The next time was more serious as I had illegally passed a car (after Dairn told me too) and the police actually asked for our passports, and with a big smile on his face, told me I did a wrong thing. That was the extent of his English so he said welcome and be careful, and let us continue. We are still hoping to get a photo with a police officer.
The police arent the only welcoming people; almost every Tunisian that helps us wants to take their pictures with us. Of course this feels quite normal for me, but I think Dairn has never received so much attention.
We have seen some incredable Roman ruins and visited some great beaches. The North is very green and lush and it feels more like driving through France than Tunisia.
The car has also let us do a tour of the side of the road food stands. Often we get an egg or chicken sandwich, depending on what the person thinks I am attempting to order. Our favorite has been the Brik L'oeuf, which is a pastry with some mashed potatoes, capers, spices, herbs and an egg cracked in the middle and deep fried.
After days of seeing dead sheep hanging outside on the highway beside bbq's, we also stopped and had the freshest, tastiest bbq'ed lamb ever! There is no doubt about what you are eating when the carcass is hanging in front of you as you chow down.
We are in a little town called Kelibia right now and have a great hotel with a sea view! Relaxing and doing laundry and eating the best sea food I have ever had. We met some Tunisians who directed us to a restuarant where you walk in on one side and and choose what fish you want (from a whole room full of every kind of fresh fish.) Then they weigh it and you go sit in the restaurant while they cook it for you. I don't think I have ever tasted anything so good nor eaten so much fish and calamari in one sitting. I still feel a little full and that was last night, but we are planning on going back again tonight. It was an expensive meal by Tunisian standards but cost about $15 Canadian for the whole thing, I love this country!
And yes, I realized I have talked a lot about food, but really would you expect anything else? And also to my delight fresh roasted almonds are sold at almost every little road side store. Not that there was ever any worries, but I am not going hungry :)
A few more days in Tunisia and we just bought are plane tickets this morning to head over to Egypt for the next adventure!
Thanks for all the emails, comments and texts so nice to hear from home.
Saturday, March 20, 2010
Beyond the Sahara
We left our little home at Juanita,s and travelled around southern Tunisia. There is very little English here and we are surviving on what I can remember from French 12, so yes I am cursing myself for not studying harder.
We saw a lot of sights from star wars movies which also happen to be national hisoric sites as well, I was just tring to pretend I was in Star Wars, so imagine my delight!
Now we are on a little island on the east coast of Tunisa called Djerba, We have discovered that if you stay in a cheap hotel and then visit the all-inclusives, they have no idea. We have also discovered other tourists after being almost totally alone for the first weeks. There is something comforting about them actually, although they are mostly older French tourists. The exciting part is we have finally found a hotel that will serve us beer! Who knew it would be so difficult __ insert question mark if I could find it on this computer__ Tunisia actually makes great beer but no one from here will drink it, accept a few that sneak into the tourist hotels.
The people here have been amazing and are so friendly and welcoming! We have been giving ourselves a break this morning from the sun but it time to sneak back into a resort, thinking about using the pool today...
Will try to up load photos soon, but it is hard enough trying to figure out this keyboard which is all Arabic and French.
We saw a lot of sights from star wars movies which also happen to be national hisoric sites as well, I was just tring to pretend I was in Star Wars, so imagine my delight!
Now we are on a little island on the east coast of Tunisa called Djerba, We have discovered that if you stay in a cheap hotel and then visit the all-inclusives, they have no idea. We have also discovered other tourists after being almost totally alone for the first weeks. There is something comforting about them actually, although they are mostly older French tourists. The exciting part is we have finally found a hotel that will serve us beer! Who knew it would be so difficult __ insert question mark if I could find it on this computer__ Tunisia actually makes great beer but no one from here will drink it, accept a few that sneak into the tourist hotels.
The people here have been amazing and are so friendly and welcoming! We have been giving ourselves a break this morning from the sun but it time to sneak back into a resort, thinking about using the pool today...
Will try to up load photos soon, but it is hard enough trying to figure out this keyboard which is all Arabic and French.
Sunday, March 14, 2010
Surviving the Sahara
I more then survived the Sahara, I totally fell in love with it!
The day after we arrived in Tunis Dairn and I took a 10 hour bus ride to Douz/Juanita's. Since the moment we arrived we have been getting complete Tunisian experiences. The first day we shopped and got outfitted for our trek, then had lunch in a bedouin home, tried out a camel and smoked sheesha.
The next day we headed out for 4 hours in 4x4's to Mt. Timbaine, where we met up with our camels and 2 guides, neither of whom spoke any English.
I will try to add some pictures because it is way to hard to describe 6 days of everything from extreme heat to days of constant sand blowing in your face. Dairn described it like standing in front of a fan while some one is continuously throwing flour in it and then part way through serving you a bowl of soup.
We saw everything from Algerian Bedouins herding their goats to a helicopter landing by the oasis for lunch. One Bedouin even joined us for part of the trek.
Feeling well rested after a night at Juanita's and a scrub in a Hammam. Tonight we go to a Bedouin wedding to watch some camel dancing and then we are renting a car for a few days...
Sunday, February 7, 2010
Almost there... Let's test this out
With 25 days left till I leave and 12 work days left to "work." I decided I should start my blog.
The main point is to let all my friends and family know I am safe and what I am up to, whereever I am in the world. At times it may appear that I am gloating or bragging; that is not completely on purpose, but a positive side effect.
I will try my best not to ramble on and will leave that until I see you in person. I have 2 requests of those who read this blog: First, please continue to email, facebook or text me. I want to know what is going on at home and I know that I will miss my family and friends a lot! And secondly, do not feel that you need to point out if I make typos, spelling mistakes or use horrible grammar, because I will be doing that completely on purpose to add some personality to the stories and make you feel like I am talking to you in person.
The main point is to let all my friends and family know I am safe and what I am up to, whereever I am in the world. At times it may appear that I am gloating or bragging; that is not completely on purpose, but a positive side effect.
I will try my best not to ramble on and will leave that until I see you in person. I have 2 requests of those who read this blog: First, please continue to email, facebook or text me. I want to know what is going on at home and I know that I will miss my family and friends a lot! And secondly, do not feel that you need to point out if I make typos, spelling mistakes or use horrible grammar, because I will be doing that completely on purpose to add some personality to the stories and make you feel like I am talking to you in person.
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